March 30th - Vintages marches out like a lamb.

Just another dreary release that barely crawls above 60 points on the VRSS. This one focuses on the Midi area of France, a region that is home to some interesting bargain wines. A small number made it to this catalogue – a very small number. Second focus is Easter. The way winter is hanging on and since neither feature is very good perhaps the second feature should be a Nor’easter

There are a few conversation piece wines in this release. The first is represented in the Argentina section. Called Versado, it’s a small winery in the Mendoza with a Canuck connection. It’s co-owned by Peter Gamble, Ann Sperling, Moray Tawse and Gerry McConnell. All are well known in the Canadian wine biz, Gamble works with, among many others, McConnell’s Benjamin Bridge in Nova Scotia, and Sperling has her eponymous winery in BC as well as working with others in the Okanagan and Southern Ontario. Tawse of course owns Tawse winery, that bastion of overpriced excess in Niagara. The Versado vineyards are approximately 7 or 8 hectares in size (about 20 acres), 3 hectares of which are planted with 80 to 90 year old Malbec vines. According to the winery, each of the vines is 100% European (not grafted on) root stock. Indeed, ungrafted, true vinifera varieties are pretty rare anywhere in this day and age. The area’s extended growing seasons combined with naturally reduced yields from the old vines deliver the potential for a wine of enhanced aroma and flavor. I’m looking forward to big fruit with enough tannic backbone to stand up to the rarest of beef.

Versado Estate Old Vine Malbec 2010 $24.95 -223 cases – Expectations? Deep ruby , some oak on the nose; lively acidity, dry, savoury, black olive, tarry blackberry flavours with a somewhat herbal finish.

Versado Estate Malbec Reserva 2009: $59.95 - Bigger and fuller than the regular cuvee, I expect something along the lines of one of Trapiche’s special ‘best managed vineyard’ releases. Those ones are often brilliant and under $40 so I’ll stick with them. The Versado Reserva, perhaps suffering from the Tawse effect, is priced way over my own self imposed $50 ceiling coming in at almost $60.

Continuing on the conversation piece theme, fans of say D’Arenberg’s Laughing Magpie might want to try the Lion’s Tooth of the McLaren Vale at $19.95. Unlike the Syrah Viognier blend made famous in the Cote Rotie, this wine is comprised of the odd combination of Shiraz and Riesling. Could be interesting, or not.
 Last of the interesting wines is one called the Stray Mongrel from Hentley farms. This is a GSZ blend. Scratching your head? I was too! Zinfandel has been added to the traditional Southern Rhone blend of Grenache and Syrah. It’s an ISD, so 4 cases of 12 in the entire province. You’ll be very lucky to see a bottle, never mind be able to buy one! On with the real picks!

 

Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz $24.95 - from the Clare valley expect cooler climate stylings here but this’ll still be a big mouthful. Fans of the late, lamented Bin 61, this is even better.

Cave de Roquebrun La Grange des Combes Saint Chinian Roquebrun $17.95 – MSG  - that’s not monosodium glutamate but rather Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache. Look for  meaty, earthy  aromas and flavours.

Calmel et J.Joseph 2009 Faugeres $16.95 – Described as having unctuous aromas. I always associated unctuous with an oily, slippery feel as opposed to smell. It received 5 stars from Decanter. Hard to beat the price.

H & B St. Chinian 2010 – $23.95 299 cases of 12 - Should be excellent. The 2009 was reviewed at 92-94 points. 2010 should be every bit as good a vintage and certainly the producer has shown no signs of reduced capabilities or quality.

Hickinbotham Cabernet Shiraz 2009 $16.95 – I’ll recommend this one in spite of the image of the  young dork wearing his little brother’s suit jacket in an effort to arrive in style.

Irony Small Lots Reserve 2010 – This seems to cover all the bases. Small Lots? Got it. Reserve? Got it. Cabernet Sauvignon?  For sure.  Napa. Yes indeed. Under $20? Barely. Is it worth it? Maybe. A Google of it gives me the first  little wine store selling it at $12.99. Wine searcher gives me a screen full and none above $13.50, but many below it. Ah well, BBQ season is coming and this’ll be a pleasant accompaniment to burgers and a change from Malbec.

Lander Jenkins Spirit Hawk Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 $18.95 - Might be worth a flyer on one and if you really like it, go for more.

The SUM 2010 from the Beckstoffers of To Kalon fame.  At $27.95, buying one might be worth a shot on the name alone.

Beronia Gran Reserva 2005 – $32.95- The Beronia Reserva is always very good and this should be no exception. Ready to drink now it’ll be smooth and fruity but still tannic enough to stand up to red meats.

March 16th - Vintages release of California Pioneers

March 16^th features California pioneers (Can you say Ca-Ching?) and a feature to compare similar wines to ascertain the differences of terroir, weather, altitude and I suppose palates. Having quickly gone through the release I have seven wines to recommend but none of them are true ‘must buy’ wines. Of them, I expect the best to be the Veneroso,  the ’07  Cellole CCR and the Luca syrah.  There are a number of big name,  big bucks wines from California in the release but the number of cases available for some is pretty small. It’ll be fun to watch the stock brokers, bankers, doctors, lawyers and plumbers fighting over those ones!   The release scores 58-62 on the VRSS.  For 2013 the Vintages releases have been consistent, if nothing else.

Luca Laborde Double Select Syrah 2010-$22.95 - 339 cases of 6 - From the Catena family’s Luca Winery, this is a very good example of higher altitude Argentina  Syrah.

San Fabiano Calcinaia Cellole Chianti Classico Riserva 2007- $26.95 -199 cases – Terrific vintage for a consistently very good to excellent wine. They also produce olive oil and are located about 25 km from Villa Nora (about 15 as the crow flies). 

Vicchiomaggio Agostino Petri Chianti Classico Riserva 2009 - $19.99 – 599 cases – A food wine from another producer who is deserving of your attention.

Tenuta di Ghizzano Veneroso 2009 $29.95 and 399 cases – 94 points from Galloni and under $30. The review reads like this should be a $50 or $60 wine.   Do you have time? You’ll need it to wait for this one to soften up and come around. I don’t expect this to be one to pop and pour so be ready to decant this morning and drink tonight, if you must drink now. And serve with something that’ll stand up to it.

Hewitson Miss Harry  2010 $19.95 – Another good Aussie GSM. Vintages has had a good run of them lately.  This one is OK priced based on Ontario prices for Aussie GSMs - unless you compare it to one of the many available 2010 Cotes du Rhone Villages. Then, not so much.

Skillogallee Shiraz 2008 –From the Clare Valley so not a massive fruit bomb. It’ll be interesting to compare this and the Jim Barry The Lodge Hill in the March 30^th release.

Menguante Garnacha Seleccion 2007 $17.95– Grenache, so imagine a Southern Rhone offering that has a lisp. Well priced.

Big Bucks

Taurasi  Vesevo 2007 – $35.95 – An acquired taste ISD with only 39 cases of 6 so become really good buddies with the Vintages consultant at one of about 6 stores. Otherwise, fahgeddaboud it.  Aglianico.

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino 2007 – $49.95 - 199 cases – Another big buck charmer from Brunello.

Shafer One Point Five $84.95 “I won the lottery!” If you just uttered those words rush right out and buy a case of this wine. Wonderful wine, it just says Napa Cab!

Shafer Relentless 2009 $84.95 - 29 cases of 12 – A question to Vintages and LCBO management, “Why bother putting this in a Vintages catalogue?” Just send a few from each case off to your political cronies and be done with it!   

Vintages Marketing - oxymoron or bunch of morons? The March 2nd release.

The spiffy Vintages release catalogue for March 2nd has among the most glaring goof ups ever, even for the monopoly! The front cover and almost a quarter of a page within has an image of one wine, the Eberle Chardonnay. Is it for sale in this edition? Nope.  Not in the book, not in the stores, not even in the general list. But there it is - front cover all by itself!

What a joke! Who proofs these things?

Forgetting for the moment the cover debacle, let’s look at the March 2 release in more detail. Already two full months are gone in 2013 and to date our friends at Vintages have really whimpered through them.   This release appears to be more of the same – gurgitations if not regurgitations , rehashes, and  rereleases.  California and South Central Italy are the primary features this time around.  It’s also time for another round of Food and Drink ‘$17 that really should be $15’ Specials. Yawn.

Looking for more numbers? This is a 62 point release on the VRSS.

I think the following sub $20 wines  will provide a small ray of sunshine for you this March. Each should deliver if QPR is important to you.

Cave de Rasteau ‘La Domeliere’ 2010 – $15.95 – 1001 cases. Another Cotes du Rhone Villages from the 2010 vintage and one that was a Smart Buy in the WS. The 2010 CdRVs must come to an end but Vintages seems to have pulled a lapin out of their chapeau to bring this one to market. Do watch the local wine writers’ reviews – Beppi,  Stimmell, Winealign, etc. - and if you read a glowing review of this wine, see if the reviewer identifies which lot number he or she tasted.  Michael Vaughan at Vintage assessments is often very good about highlighting the lot numbers he’s tasted in his subscriber based newsletter. This long after the very good WS review there may be a few different lots combined to make up the 1000 cases and the quality can vary wildly from lot to lot. If you find a great one, buy it up. If you get a bad one take it back and check the other boxes/ bottles  in your store to see if there’s a different lot to try.  Or go to another store. The next lot might be far superior.

eMinor Shiraz 2010 - $18.95 – 399 cases - From BVE, this is no Ebenezer, but it’ll be very good and should be adaptable to those early spring BBQs. Save yourself $11 and buy this over the Mollydooker Boxer.

Aldiano Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva  2008 $17.95 – 549 cases- Not to be confused with Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, this’ll be a tasty, busy mouthful of food friendly goodness.  Historically not as sophisticated as Vino Nobile, think of the Abruzzo as  “the Full Monty”  -raucous and loud. It was an editor’s pick in the Wine Enthusiast.

Casale dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Riserva 2009 $18.95 –A WoM so there’ll be lots - 1399 cases.  A well priced Chianti Classico Riserva, expect red fruits , olive notes, some meatiness but without the rich depth and fullness of the ‘06s and ‘07s. A food wine.

Apollonio Copertino Rosso 2007 – $16.95 – 449 cases - Another change of pace - 70% Negroamaro, the balance Montepulciano, Malvasia and Sangiovese. Previous vintages have been nice for the price. Good on its own but also ready to accompany whatever you’re serving from pizza thru eggplant parmesan to spaghetti bolognese. For a casual meal   you won’t go far wrong.

Altamira de Los Andes Reserva Malbec 2009 – $28.95 - 279 cases - From the Uco Valley, this one is a little cher but it’ll be more than good to share.  Red meats call its name – NY strip steak with a peppercorn sauce or maybe cross the ocean and match to bistecca alla Fiorentina!

Mollydooker The Boxer Shiraz 2009 - $29.95 – 223 cases -Cough medicine? Grape Syrup with a shot? Big is too small to describe this wine. Massive perhaps?  Great gobs of fruit, it’ll be teeth staining and palate purpling.  Who knew purple could be a verb?

Big Bucks

SAN GIORGIO UGOLFORTE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2006 $47.95 – 199 cases– A well praised offering, scored over 90 from all the major reviewers. I’m not familiar with the producer, but it might be worth a shot if only because the 2006 vintage was so good in Tuscany.

California, ho hum.  The good reds are way over my price ceiling. 

The whites? There might be one or two but I’ll take mine from Ontari-ari-ario. “Especially the chardonnay” he said with more than a hint of sarcasm.  

February 16 - Tuscany and Passover - ho hum.

Tuscan Triumphs and Passover Prerequisites – still more alliteration from our moribund monopoly’s marketing mooks and midriffs (ah ha, two can play at that game!). The Tuscan feature is an interesting history lesson but not a compelling reason to spend.  Once again the Passover wines are just that, wines I’ll pass over. Another ho hum release barely scores 62 points on the VRSS.

Best wine for the $ in the release is the Delas Freres Crozes Hermitage Les Launes 2010 – $20.95 199 cases The pick of the release for me. Last year’s and many  vintages  prior have been excellent . Expect  full, ripe, black fruit, hints of pepper and licorice. If you must open now, decant it otherwise give it a year or more in a nice quiet place.

Schild Estate Shiraz 2009 – 499 cases, the inside back cover and 92 points counterbalance the higher price of  $28.95. This winery has been the subject of a number of reports outlining some  questionable conduct concerning re (and re and re)  releases of  their WSTop 10 wine a couple of vintages ago.. Even yours truly chimed in at one point. But the wine always scores well in the WS and has made their Top 100 multiple times.   Expensive and getting more so but next to the pricing insanity that is the Penfold’s lineup (see Bin 389), it appears to be downright cheap!

Palacios Remondo La Montesa 2009 - $17.95 - A real bargain for a Rioja. 349 cases.
Turkey Flat GSM sorry SGM, 2010- $19.95. Full ripe southern Rhone blend from Oz. Unlike last release’s the Strapper, there’s more Shiraz than Grenache this time. Look for a meatier wine with just hints of raspberry.

OK there is a Tuscany feature so I should find a couple to put in the top 10 – my best bets are:

Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva 2008 – $27.95 Calls out for a multi course Tuscan feast. These wines are so good with food.

Poliziano – Vino Nobile de Montepulciano- 2009 - $25.95- Black fruits, good mouthfeel, very tasty.

Bodegas Balbas Ardal 2005 $16.95 – Ready to drink immediately, this has as much age as it’ll need and should be soft and smooth.

McPherson Basilisk 2010 Shiraz/ Mourvedre 2010 - $18.95 –Based on the image, the bottle appears to be festooned with multitudinous gold medals.  If the wine lives up to half of them this should be pretty good. But look carefully at them to be sure they’re not all from the Humptydoo Tractor Pull and Wine Show.

Luigi Bosca Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 – At $17.95, this is a terrific, crowd pleasing cab value. Burgers are calling from the ‘Q!

Big Bucks

Majella Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 - $36.95 – My choice for the Cabernet of the release. Coonawarra terrior will impart mint and black fruit flavours, not as cassis-y as a Napa Cab but the climate and soils of the region really lend themselves to this grape.

Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2006 - $34.95 – A Brunello at Chianti prices. Among  the buys of the release! Of the other Three Brunelli, I prefer the Altesino – too bad it’s over my price ceiling!

Vintages February 2 - A good time to save some bucks!

This week’s main feature is called Signature Study, the selection of the signature grapes from a number of new world wine producing areas or countries. The presentation is pretty much as you would expect, big reds from Chile, whites from Ontario, as well as a red and white each from California, Argentina and Australia. I’m sure you can guess from which grapes the latter three reds are made.  The second feature is more fizz.

Looking for the positives, this is a release that makes one very happy because there is little temptation to spend much money! It scores an estimated 61on the VRSS.

The Whites

There are three inexpensive white options and they may be among the better QPR’s in the book.

Man Vintners Chardonnay $13.95 From South Africa, very well priced and a real mouthful.

Bestheim Reserve Pinot Gris 2011 -$14.95 – A gold medal winner but just dry so expect a slight sweetness to it.

Château de Pocé Touraine sauvignon blanc 2011 $13.95 – Another Gold medal winner at a bargain price. This Sauvignon Blanc just shouts “Oysters anyone?”.

The Reds

Domaine Grand Veneur Les Champauvins Cotes du Rhone Villages 2010. - $18.95- A single vineyard offering from the domaine, this one delivers almost everything a good Gigondas or Chateauneuf might except the price. Expect the cognoscenti to rush for this one.

Yalumba  The Strapper GSM 2010 - $19.95 – I’m a big fan of the southern Rhone blends from almost anywhere but especially Oz. This one will deliver for you. Think of it as your favourite expensive Cotes du Rhone Villages  from a very hot vintage! Not huge, but big enough to hold its own.  Grilled or roast chicken is calling!

Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2010 - At $16.95 this one’ll be a good option for casual get togethers and BBQ’s come the summer. Mmmm, Lamb burgers!

Also, both Chapel Hill offerings should also be very very good in this release.

Cabernet Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 -$19.95 – Doesn’t get the high score of the KJ in the big buck options, but it’ll always please a crowd.

Suzanna Balboa Signature Malbec 2010  -$19.95– A rerelease methinks. The score is too high but it’ll be very good.

Tarapaca Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $16.95 – A well priced offering from the Maipo Valley. The Maipo  has always been among my favourite areas for Cabs from Chile so it’s worth trying.  I expect some coarseness to accompany the black fruit.

Les Halos de Jupiter 2010 Costieres de Nimes. $14.95 - Ah the geography lesson of last month paid off! Well priced for a fruity, pleasing blend.

Hecht and Bannier Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2010 - $23.95 – H&B is among the highest quality producers in the Midi. You’ll be happy with this bad boy but the two options from the Southern Rhone for $5 to $9 less will be just as good.

Stefano Farina Solers La Bocce 2009 – Italy, at $15.95 and well scored by Bruce Sanderson in the WS, this one could be a terrific accompaniment to rich pasta dishes.

Beronia Reserva 2008 - $18.95 – Spain,  High quality and always very tasty but I take umbrage with the Vintages Panel’s quote that it “really delivers for the price”. Sorry but this one really delivered when the price was $2 less. Now it just delivers.

The Big Buck Options

Tour de L’Ile Chateauneuf du Pape 2010 – $39.95 Another long lived option from the fabulous 2010 Vintage, this can be enjoyed early with sufficient decanting or some red meat to cut the tannins. Big and bold to be sure but this is one that I’d consider taking a pass on and trying the Clos Du Calvaire for $11 less.

Chappellet Signature 2009 - $68.95, I love  Chappellet’s wines, but this is just too much for what you’re getting. If you check out Vinopedia, you’ll find two and a half pages of retailers listed before you even hit the $50 mark.  The scary thing is, this’ll sell. But not to me!

Kendall Jackson Jackson Hills 2007 – $44.95. Hmmm, interesting review. Calls it young and yet says just drink though 2013. Seems at odds with itself. I’m at odds with the price.

Ebenezer Shiraz 2007 - $40.95 – After pushing against the $40 ceiling for so long, this big brute has finally broken  through it. Is it worth it? Only your palate can tell for sure but it is a huge mouthful of black fruit, pepper, hints of mint and alchohol.  

Tenimenti Angelini Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2007- $49.95- From a wonderful vintage in Tuscany, this one is probably one of the best of the big buck options.

Cirrus Syrah 2007- At 33.95 this one is expensive for a wine whose ‘best before date’ from James Molesworth was last year. Take that part of his review with a grain of salt, but if you do buy, be advised you might not be buying for a 5 yr. rest in the cellar.

BP goes slumming on the General List and finds a gem and a gold star for a Vintages consultant

Clos du Calvaire from Domaine du Pere Pape 2010 – I recently opened the 2007 vintage of this wine (purchased from Vintages a number of years ago) and thought it was splendid. So when I saw the 2010 for under $30 at my local LCBO, I had to jump in and try one. The 2010 vintage of this Chateauneuf du Pape has to be among the best buys on the General List at the LCBO right now.   Decanted for an hour or so, it shows a slightly reticent nose with hints of funk that leads to forest floor. That soon gives way to cassis and then ganache notes. On the palate, it’s fruit driven with cassis/ black berries and red raspberry notes.  It finishes nice and long with olive and licorice notes supporting the fruit, but is also possessed of enough acidity to accompany the richest of dishes (slow cooked lamb shanks perhaps). At $28.95 this is every bit as good as CdP’s costing $6 to $11 more.  It should sell like crazy but it seems to be oh so  cleverly concealed in plain view on the general list.  It’s nice to find a well priced wine that is available for more than two weeks, will age for years but can also be enjoyed now. I stocked up on it.  Above are my tasting notes, now let's do the math. At about half the price of the brilliant 2010 Vieux Donjon and I’d say at the very least 96% as good, it would seem a no brainer!  Seek one out and let me know if you concur. BP gave this bad boy 92 points and I feel it'll only improve over the next 3 to 7 years given proper storage. It'll age much longer but my palate seems to like these best around that age.

Planets from Prior Pons in the Priorat region of Spain earned my local consultant the gold star. At $22.95 and from the Jan.19 Vintages release, this was not among my recommendations last week but should have been! At the suggestion of my local Vintages consultant Anna, I tried a bottle of this. It’s a fabulous wine! Accompanying osso bucco, we had it immediately following a bottle of Il Greppo Greppicante 2007, which if memory serves me correctly was a WS Top 100 wine. The Planets was head and shoulders above it in quality of (warning: LCBO alliteration alert!) fruit, fullness, and finish. This Spanish blend was a standout. Thanks to Anna for her suggestion! 

January 19 - A few Spanish bargains and more

The January 19^th release features a number of options priced in the under $20 range from that bastion of bargains, Spain. Also featured, but at a far higher average price point is the Okanagan. Regardless of whether or not my wallet was beaten to within an inch of its life over Christmas and New Years (it was ) only three wines make my ‘must buy’ category.  While there might be other options available, these three really stand out to provide a combination of value and quality.  

The release scores 62 on the VRSS. Below in order are the wines that interest me.

Columbia Crest H3 Merlot 2009 – $19.95 Ripe, hints of black cherry, chocolate, vanilla, coffee. From Columbia Crest’s  renowned Horse Heaven Hills (H3)  vineyards. I really enjoy this merlot.

Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha 2010 – $19.95 My top pick from the Spanish entries, this Grenache comes from a terrific producer. Do you like raspberry? Wait for it, you’ll get it.

Les Hauts de Castellas 2010 Vacqueyras – $19.95- I expect we’re getting near the end of the entries from the Southern Rhone’s brilliant 2010 vintage so buy some while you can.

Luzon Seleccion 12 Meses  Crianza 2008 – From the South of Spain  so loaded with fruit (and like the wine below, an  unusual  Crianza for us). Among all the Spanish 90 pointers, this one is a real 90 point wine, not a Jay ‘Captain 90’ Miller 90 point wine.  

Solar de Sael  Crianza Mencia 2007 from Bierzo. Made from Mencia grapes so don’t expect your normal Spanish Crianza. Unlike most Spanish Crianzas we see this is not tempranillo.  Crianza refers not to the region or the grape but rather to the amount of time the wine spends in wood prior to bottling – one year.

Heartland Shiraz 2009 - $19.95 – Usually not so mouth filling and unctuous as their Director’s Cut, this one should be pretty good nonetheless.

Domaine Tournon Shay’s Flat  Shiraz 2010 –$29.95  From Michel Chapoutier’s multinational wine oligarchy, this Aussie option scores and fits into the Parker style very well.  95 points? I doubt it, but it’ll be good and there are many others that are far more expensive and not nearly as good!

MollyDooker the Maitre D’2010 – $29.95 - Massive Cabernet fruit from Southern OZ. Very close to jammy!  

Edge Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 $26.95 – A Cali cab without pretense but still with the ‘more than it’s worth’ price tag. Enjoyable but $21 or $22 is an accurate reflection of the contents of the bottle.

Wakefield Shiraz 2010 - $17.95 – Wakefield produces perennial quality bargains regardless of the grape. The Wakefield Shiraz from the Clare Valley may pack in some nori notes as well as everything in the review. If you’re a fan of older style Bin 61, you might enjoy this at 7 or 8 dollars less.

Marceau Chateauneuf du Pape 2009 - $34.95 – If this was the Marcel Marceau CNdP, could I say a word about it? Has anyone had this producer before? Not me, so I am intrigued enough to mention it and perhaps buy one.