Tuesday, May 11, 2010

May 15th Vintages release - Not much in this one...overpriced Burgundians, two great (but expensive) Italians and one lonely bargain from Spain

I've decided to become very selective about my recommendations this week for a number of reasons. More and more I find the LCBO's Vintages Global Focal Points gives them an opportunity to foist overpriced and underqualitied and underqualified wines off on the Ontario consumer. This time it's Pinot Noirs from Burgundy -oooo, pretty cover... (Oui mais Monsier BP, c'est le terroir!). It ain't the terroir, it's watery, insipid, weak wine that needs food to be drinkable. The heartbreak grape indeed. The real heartbreak is what the consumer feels when they have their first taste!

California Chardonnays? Yawn. What, did they have a bunch in the warehouse?

As for the Rose wines stick with the Ros-eh wines from Niagara - the Featherstone and the Fielding and the Ladybug should all be good.

Next release, if it's anything like the recent Chilean release, BP gets disappointed by Argentina but I'm sure someone had a nice trip to take pretty piccies!

On to the Picks:
Either of the Suzanna Balbo creations from Argentina will be very good value for you.

2004 Castelgiocondo Brunello - a rerelease from Frescobaldi this is a spectacular wine from a very good vintage but it's also $49.95. If you can afford to leave it for a few years, do so. Otherwise, decant in the morning to drink with an evening meal - and visit it throughout the day to taste the evolution. There night be some left for supper but I doubt it.
2005 Barolo Serralunga $27.95 - An OK vintage and a spectacular price for a Barolo, especially one worthy of 90 points. This'll be gone fast. Dare I say it? Think Italian Pinot Noir.
MANGA DEL BRUJO 2007 - $15.95 – Think of an inexpensive Spanish Chateauneuf du Pape – 'the Wizard's Sleeve' should be a smoking buy based on last year’s vintage. The traditional Rhone blend plus a bit of Tempranillo thrown in to the mix. Let it breathe to soften a bit.
For something different let's try a Portugese white, the Vinho Verde from Muralhas de Moncao for $13.95. Could be a terrific summer sipper with snacks on the deck or by the pool and yes it does have a bit of fizziness on the tongue.

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Vintages MAY 1 release - Open the wallets for the really good ones in this release.

Overall this is a more expensive release. While there are some sub-$20 values, they are few and far between in my opinion. That said, there are also some terrific wines that you might just have to decide to spring for. Here are my picks, some are expensive so where I would have bought 2 or 3 in another release, this time around I’ll only be buying one.

MOMO PINOT GRIS 2008 $18.95
MOUNT NELSON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008 $17.95
TENUTA DI CASTIGLIONI SALTA GRILLI ROSATO 2009 $14.95
LAURUS GIGONDAS 2006 AC $24.95
CUVÉE DU VATICAN CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2007 $36.95
MARCHESI DI BAROLO BAROLO 2005 $38.95


The Whites
MOMO PINOT GRIS 2008 $18.95
MOUNT NELSON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008 $17.95
ATTEMS PINOT GRIGIO 2009 Bright tropical fruit, pear and apple flavours, a viscous texture and a crisp finish are the hallmarks of this popular Pinot Grigio. Serve it as a refreshing aperitif or with grilled chicken breasts and summer salads.
$19.95

Zin and Prim fans – just one pick from me-
GLADIATOR PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA 2007 $15.95


The ROSÉS
TENUTA DI CASTIGLIONI SALTA GRILLI ROSATO 2009 pretty rosé, last year’s was one of my favourites of the summer so I expect nothing less this year. Calls out for a variety of foods such as barbecued chicken, grilled tuna, or grilled pork with a mango chutney. Filled with lemon zest, black cherry and spice aromas and flavours, this dry wine finishes with a zingy fruitiness. $14.95

The REDS
RENACER PUNTO FINAL MALBEC 2008 A forward, juicy style, with blackberry and licorice notes that stay lively on the medium-weight finish. Drink now. Score: 88. $13.95

LEONARDO CHIANTI RISERVA 2006 DOCG A great vintage in Chianti, this one should be very nice $21.95

Two Shiraz, but note the scores are from Halliday so I regard them as inflated by 3 to 5 points
BREMERTON SELKIRK SHIRAZ 2007 Langhorne Creek, South Australia, Purple-red; a complex bouquet of black fruits, licorice and spice, the palate taking these characters on to another dimension, with a touch of chocolate, ripe but soft tannins, and oak. Score: 94. $19.95

PIKES EASTSIDE SHIRAZ 2006 Clare Valley, South Australia TASTING NOTE: Deep purple; a voluminous bouquet of black fruits, spice and licorice; a medium- to full-bodied and rich palate, flooded with black fruit and spice flavours; great tannin and oak support. Score: 95. $22.95

ROSEMOUNT TRADITIONAL SHOW RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MERLOT/PETIT VERDOT 2005 McLaren Vale, South Australia Usually a terrific wine, if slightly pricey. This one has also been moved to the new Rosemount wine bottle/ label that cheapens the product within (see my notes on the GSM from a few releases ago). Want to compare an Old world and a New world Bordeaux blend? Try this and the next one from Bordeaux. Score: 90. $34.95

CHÂTEAU LAROSE TRINTAUDON 2004 $26.95 – 5 stars from Decanter – hard to argue with that score and that price!

CHÀTEAU DE NAGES JT COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES 2006 $21.95

LAURUS GIGONDAS 2006 AC Rich but racy, with a lovely black tea and warm cherry sauce perfume leading the way for juicy currant, fig and braised beef notes. Warm licorice and coffee frame the finish. Drink now through 2014. Score: 91. $24.95
DOMAINE MONTMARTEL VISAN 2007 TASTING NOTE: From the great 2007 Rhône vintage, this rerelease has rose petal, blueberry and cassis on the nose. Dry, mouth-coatingly fruity with good tannins and a long finish. Age it 2-4+ years, or break out the rare roast beef. $15.95

CUVÉE DU VATICAN CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2007 AC Lots going on here and a truly wonderful vintage for the region. This’ll benefit from another 1-2 years of bottle age, and will drink nicely for 15+ years if you have the proper storage. Score: 90. $36.95
MARCHESI DI BAROLO BAROLO 2005 TASTING NOTE: Offers strawberry jam on the nose, with hints of vanilla. Full-bodied, with big, velvety tannins and a long aftertaste of ripe fruit and cream. Very, very chewy, but the tannins are polished. Excellent value. Best after 2013. Score: 91. $38.95

DOMINUS ESTATE NAPANOOK 2006 second wine of Dominus, this Cabernet based Bordeaux blend should be very good, if expensive. Score: 91. $49.95

SANCTUARY USIBELLI VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005 Score: 90. $34.95

Monday, April 12, 2010

April 17th - Veneto, One Lonely Tasmanian Devil and some bio if not dynamic wines

Early looks indicate another weak release – I've been off Valpolicella for a while and the really good Amarones are beyond my price points. As it is I see about 8 wines worth considering, but all the reds are at or above the $20 mark. I’ll be away for the release and not really sorry for it.
Possibles:The Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc at $14.95 should be a good one if you need some SB now.
There are 4 Aussie Shiraz to pick from – all are good and within 4 dollars of one another, Rufus Stone and Bendigo Shiraz at $19.95, The Hedonist at $21.95 and the most expensive but always very good, Saltram Mamre Brook at $23.95
Pirramimma Grenache $21.95 – a personal choice.
Rodney Strong Cabernet $34.95 – expensive for what you might be getting – look for the Gallo from last release or the Copolla’s Director’s Cut if you must buy a Cali Cab.

The Cellar Dweller

Verbena Brunello De Montalcino $46.95 – a 93 pointer from Suckling but only 150 cases so move fast on it.

Others
There are some really good ’07 Cotes du Rhones in the release but I’m Cotes du Rhone’d up as far as numbers go. Also so mid priced Malbecs from Argentina that are good but not standouts.

Monday, April 5, 2010

The long Easter weekend - New world rules....

Friday started with a glass of leftover Kaiken MAlbec. It had been sealed and refridged since being open a couple of days before. Drinkable but not much more...
Time to open a Piramimma Grenache from the cellar. My thoughts were two - one to try this bad boy because I'm a big G fan and the second because a new release of it will be coming to your friendly local Provincial Monopoly store in the next few weeks. It was very nice, Aussie fruit to be sure, but not overwhelming. Made me wish for a Piramimma GSM...now that would be a wine I'd like to try!

Saturday was another great day - sunny, warm and nice until midafternoon. Steaks on the bar-B were called for so that meant a big Cab from the sous sol. Hmmm, how about the Trapiche Fincas Las Palmas 2007. This big brother to the Broquel line aquitted himself well. Opaque, the colour of eggplant - Oh wait, I'm a wine writer I better come up with something better than that! Opaque, aubergine almost pitch in colour. Cassis aromas with chocolate playing a close second fiddle are very much in your glass if not in your face! Not too dry, well strucured and pretty long with moderate tannins. Very nice wine with some nice rare beef.

Sunday - A lovely day, cool but sunny and warm for the 4th of April. Off to a good friend's place for both Easters - Greek Orthodox and Non Orthodox. We came bearing gifts of good wine and were treated to the classical Greek easter feast of an entire roast lamb on a spit over coals in the backyard. It started with spinach and cheese pies with a glass of Copolla's Director's Cut Cabernet 2007. Sipping this wonderful wine while picking at the lamb as it passed the 4 hour mark slowly rotating over hot coals was heaven on earth. OK, so maybe I wasn't sipping. What's halfway between a sip and a guzzle? Back to the lamb, you turkey skin lovers out there pay attention!. You have not lived until you're had the crackley outer skin of a still spinning, rotisseried lamb that is being lovingly basted with a blend of home grown olive oil, lemon, oregano and pepper. The cab has enough acidity to pair with the rich lamb and oil and enough fruit to finish long. Glorious, and gone too soon! Next up was a bottle of Ebenezer Shiraz, 2004. Again, a big fruity wine that is more than capable of standing up to the main course combination of lamb, lemon potatoes, homemade tzatziki. This one had a nose of smoked meat, barnyard and black fruits that blew off to reveal some coffee notes and more dark fruit.
I just wish I'd brought more of both!

Thursday, April 1, 2010

April 3rd - Happy Easter - The Spanish Inquisition gets a Si or two and some shrugs

Not being a huge fan of Spanish wines (Liking the Priorat region more and more though) this feature underwhelms me. A few good wines and some others from around the globe, but nothing to run around like a madman after....

SPAIN Feature
BODEGAS LAN RESERVA 2004 – While not a Top 100 Wine to my palate, this one is very good. Decanted and sipped I thought “What’s the big deal, just another Tempranillo?”. With food, (roast rack of pork with roasted root veggies, mashed taters and some greens) the wine improved and was very nice. I’ll buy a trio to see how they mature. $19.95
LOS 800 2005 – Grenache mostly – should be good tasty.$19.95 – Two of these or three of the cheapies? Hmmmmm….
BODEGAS ATECA OLD VINES GARNACHA DE FUEGO 2008 – Grenache mostly so expect more fruit than the tempranillos have and the price is right.$12.95
Artazuri – same as above for a buck more.

FINCA SOBREÑO CRIANZA 2006 – Might be worth a try at $17.95.

Best of the Rest
HENRY’S DRIVE PILLAR BOX RESERVE SHIRAZ 2007 $21.95 – Probably the polar opposite to the LAN. Aussie Shiraz in classic form. $21.95

TOWNSHIP 7 MERLOT 2006 – An Okanagen beauty, pricey at $26.95.

GALLO BARRELLI CREEK VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006 – Expect great Cab character with a tarry afternote. $34.95

GRAFFIGNA GRAND RESERVE MALBEC 2006 – Not bad if you need a Malbec fix - $17.95

CATHEDRAL CELLAR TRIPTYCH 2006 – A good buy at $16.95.

DOMAINE DE LA CROISETTE CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2007 – My review by the numbers. No, BUY the numbers 2007 - $13.95.

SKOURAS SAINT GEORGE (AGHIORGHITIKO) 2007 – Fun to say and drink at Greek Easter this weekend – after a few glasses you won’t care if you can pronounce the grape! $16.95


The Big Buck Zone
MARCHESI DE’ FRESCOBALDI VIGNETO MONTESODI CHIANTI RÚFINA RISERVA 2006 – The last one of these I bought was on sale due to stained labels for barely $35. I can’t bring myself to spend this, no matter how good it is. Great wine, great year but $59.95

Monday, March 22, 2010

Better Late than never, the March 20th report

An abbreviated report of the March 20th release. Sorry for the late report but I’m just back from a week of not much wine in Costa Rica with my two bronzed beauties. We did have lots of Imperiales (beer) and one not bad Viu Manent Malbec Rose.
On our last night a Luigi Bosca 2007 Reserve Malbec was the perfact way to end our vacation. The latter accompanied some great tapas, classical guitar playing and flamenco dancers in the San Jose Marriot Hotel. What a hotel! It was the perfect end to a wonderful week! A night there is highly recommended to anyone with a morning flight out of San Jose. You’ll need to be very calm for that experience!

Ahhh but back to reality now!. There were some beauties in this release at the $15.00 Price Point as well as a few more sub $30’s that are even better, but perhaps not that much better!

A fizzie to start - SANTA JULIA EXTRA BRUT $14.95The other under $15.00 gems:
D’ARENBERG THE STUMP JUMP SHIRAZ 2008 $14.95
RENZO MASSI ERTA E CHINA 2007 $14.95
DOMAINE CROZE-GRANIER CUVÉE RÉSERVE CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2007 $14.95
ROCCA DELLE MACÌE CHIANTI RISERVA 2005 $15.00


The Best of the rest, in my order of preference
JIM BARRY THE LODGE HILL SHIRAZ 2007 $24.95

SANTA CAROLINA RESERVA DE FAMILIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 $19.95


DOMAINE DE LA COLLINE SAINT-JEAN VIEILLES VIGNES VACQUEYRAS 2007 $23.95

RINGBOLT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 $19.95

FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA DIRECTOR’S CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 $29.95

RANCHO ZABACO SONOMA HERITAGE VINES ZINFANDEL 2007 $19.95

MONSANTO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2006 $28.95

Two from Portugal for under 12 dollars! CASA DO LAGO 2006 and REDONDO LATITUDE WEST 2008 both $11.95

And if money is no object, chase this one down:TENUTA DI CASTELGIOCONDO LAMAIONE 2006 IGT Toscana
(Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi) TASTING NOTE: Dark in color, with intense aromas of mineral, spice, blackberry and coffee bean. Full-bodied, with a wonderful core of ripe fruit and velvety tannins. Polished and very beautiful, with a lovely texture. A fantastic effort from the Frescobaldis. Best after 2011. Score – 95. (James Suckling) $63.95

Thursday, March 4, 2010

A Chilean release of epic proportions - NOT!

A Chilean release punctuated by the presence of a couple of nice Carmeneres, but otherwise a pretty nondescript batch of wines for a highlighted wine country. I hope the Chilean photo montage was provided by the Chilean tourism board and not the result of a fat, all expenses covered contract paid by the LCBO to some bureaucrat’s brother in law. Talk about a colossal waste of paper.

Rant done, there are some good wines in the overall release but it is nothing special. If you miss this release, don’t lose any sleep!


My Picks:
RIVERA CAPPELLACCIO RISERVA AGLIANICO 2004 $17.95

TEDESCHI CAPITEL DEI NICALÒ APPASSIMENTO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2007
$16.95

GEYSER PEAK BLOCK COLLECTION WALKING TREE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005 $29.95

MONTES ALPHA CARMENÈRE 2007 19.95


The Best of the rest,
The Whites

PENINSULA RIDGE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2007 Earned Gold at the 2009 Ontario Wine Awards and from the wonderful ’07 vintage. $24.95
EMILIANA NOVAS WINEMAKER’S SELECTION CHARDONNAY/VIOGNIER/MARSANNE 2007
Organically Grown Grapes Some floral, ginger aromas. Fullbodied white wine, nice floral notes with a vanilla. Score – Silver Medal. (Decanter) $18.95
MULDERBOSCH CHARDONNAY 2006 … fresh, with bright orange blossom, white peach, melon and fig notes woven together with an elegant stitching of grilled hazelnut. The long finish has nice buried acidity. Drink now. Score – 90. (James Molesworth,) $21.95
ERRÁZURIZ SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008 It is an excellent value. $14.95

And NOW the REDS
The Italians

RIVERA CAPPELLACCIO RISERVA AGLIANICO 2004 DOC Castel del Monte
TASTING NOTE: simply superb as dense layers of perfumed, jammy dark fruit flow from the glass in convincing style … Suggestions of violets, minerals, menthol and earthiness linger on the powerful yet refined finish. 92. (Antonio Galloni, www.erobertpar -ker.com, April 2009) $17.95
CENNATOIO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2006 DOCG Dried flowers, with blackberry and dried cherry, lead to a full body, with chewy tannins and a long, rich finish. Needs time to open. Score – 90. (James Suckling,) $24.95
CASTELLO DI MELETO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2007 TASTING NOTE: The 2007 Chianti Classico is
a sweet, fragrant offering redolent of perfumed red fruits. In this vintage it is especially soft and generous, and I would prefer to enjoy the wine on the young side. The Chianti Classico is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and 5% Merlot that spends 12 months in cask. 19.95
TEDESCHI CAPITEL DEI NICALÒ APPASSIMENTO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2007
a blend of 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, and the remaining 10% is a combination of Rossignola, Oseleta, Negrara and Dindarella. The wine is richer than traditional Ripassos.and has been a perennial fave since, ummm, well since it was $14! $16.95
The Chileans
Chile is trying to make Carmenere its signature grape in the way Malbec has become Argentina’s. To my palate, a very nice Carmenere is superb. A bad one is drek. It does blend nicely, it was once one of the bit players among the 6 Bordeaux grapes ( which mostly have now become 5) but rarely held centre stage there. There are some good ones in today’s release:
MONTES ALPHA CARMENÈRE 2007 A Wine of the Month so there’ll be lots allowing you to try a bottle and get more if you like it. The review says, a superb aromatic array of spice, lavender, incense, smoke, and blueberry. Layered, plush, and concentrated, it has excellent depth and grip, Score – 91..$19.95
ERRÁZURIZ SINGLE VINEYARD DON MAXIMIANO ESTATE CARMENÈRE 2008 Deep ruby colour with raspberry, smoke, sweet herbs (marjoram), blueberry, vanilla and spice. Dry,intensely fruity and spicy, with balancing acids and mid-palate tannins. The fruit smooths the whole package out beautifully. Full bodied with a surprisingly long finish. Ageable 2-4+ years, but would make a lovely match tonight with roast leg of lamb.$18.95
MONTES LIMITED SELECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON/CARMENÈRE 2008, Apalta Vineyard TASTING NOTE: The purple-colored 2008 Cabernet-Carmenere Limited Selection offers a reticent perfume of spice box, lavender, black cherry, and blueberry. With a firm under-pinning and spicy, savory flavors, it is likely to evolve for 1-2 years and offer pleasurable drinking from 2010 to 2016. $14.95
TABALÍ RESERVA MERLOT 2006 Limarí Valley Gord Stimmell liked this one saying: A stunning value red, one of the best buys in today’s release. Big black cherry,vanilla, violets and cedar aromas. Rich flavours showing black currants, black cherry, mocha and vanilla bean. His palate usually matches mine (or vice versa) - Score – 90+. (Gordon Stimmell,) $14.95

The rest of the world
Château de Fontenelles ‘Cuvée Renaissance’ 2006 - One of the Wines of the month – should be good and pretty well priced, from Corbières $19.95
Domaine Galévan ‘Paroles de Femme’ Côtes du Rhône 2007 
 A rerelease of the one of last year’s very pleasant Cotes du Rhones $15.00
MULDERBOSCH FAITHFUL HOUND 2005 WO Stellenbosch: A full blown 5 yr old Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. this is smoky, with incense and coffee aromas and a palate of red currant, crushed plum and boysenberry fruit, layered with additional cocoa, grilled herb and mineral notes. The long finish lets both the fruit and herb notes linger. Drink now through 2011. Score – 90. (James Molesworth,) $20.95
GEYSER PEAK BLOCK COLLECTION WALKING TREE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005 I like the Geyser Peak wines especially their reserves. Grapes used in this wine are from a specific block within a specific vineyard ….tannins and ageability always characterize this Cab, which contains a splash of Syrah. it’s very dry, with herb-infused cherry and currant flavors, and new oak plays only a supporting role. It’s really an elegant wine …. An Editors’ Choice. Score – 91. (Steve Heimoff, Wine Enthusiast,) $29.95
KAIKEN ULTRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 Mendoza Expect it to improve further still over the next 2-3 years in bottle, or enjoy it tonight with herbed roast beef served rare. $19.95
ROSEMOUNT SHOW RESERVE GSM 2006: On the plus side, this wine used to be a favourite of mine – think of an Aussie Chateauneuf du Pape. But on the down side, this vintage (or is it the winemaker?) might not be up to previous ones and it is expensive considering the Aussie wine glut. As well, I can’t get my head around the new label and bottle – I don’t like either one. Both have cheapened the image of the product I think. $34.95

THE ONE LONELY Recommended IN STORE DISCOVERY – A transfer in from the VSO website, this one might be worth hunting down!
PRATESI CARMIONE 2005 IGT Rosso Toscana The intensity of this powerhouse Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend is outstanding, and so is the density of its aromas. It presents a solid wall of blackberry, dark chocolate, pipe tobacco and cigar box. It's bold and syrupy and overwhelms the palate with its enormous bounty. Score - 93. (Monica Larner, Wine Enthusiast, April 2008)$44.00