A terrific wine from the latest Release - Structura 2006

I stopped in to my local LCBO outlet and started picking thru the release to get the wines I thought would offer the best value and quality. I was told by a consultant, whose palate is probably more educated than mine, that the Structura was spectacular. Hmmm, it made my list of ones to consider but was not in the Top 6. Should I go for it? Only one bottle left in this huge store (it was 9:45 on Saturday morning). Why not? Then, when I stopped at another store to get some Two Hands Brave Faces they also had a few more of the Structura. The consultant there said nothing but made a kissing impression and put her fingers to her mouth in that universal Italian gesture of ‘Mama Mia, atsa good’. How could I resist that? So I grabbed a couple  more. I had already figured out the weekend menus at that point.  One of the Structuras was now to be sacrificed on Sunday and be served with one of my favourite things, a pork rib roast.

 There is something about a cold, damp fall day that just screams for a long roasted, crackling covered, piece of pork. Originally,  the pork was to be served with small, new potatoes roasted in the meat’s drippings, green beans, and a red cabbage braised in wine. But halfway through the cabbage's cooking time something went terribly wrong. I say ‘something went terribly wrong’ to protect the guilty, because the reality is I fell asleep in front of the Lions and 49’ers. As it gently reduced the wine was to steam the cabbage but actually it quickly reduced and then left the building completely, leaving the cabbage to begin to burn to the bottom of the pan. Luckily, the doorbell rang to wake me out of my sleepy reverie. It was a good friend delivering a big pan of homemade eggplant parmesian! What a delight! And the timing could not have been better! My pork roast had a brand new accompaniment. Forget the cabbage, taters and beans. It was to be pork roast and spatulas of homemade  Parmigiana di melanzane! Minimalist cooking at its finest! Fresh, simple ingredients, cooked to perfection, served  piping hot. And the wine? In a word, amazing. Upon first pouring, intoxicating aromas of grape lept from the glass followed by more black fruit scents. First mouthful? A viscous cornucopia of mouthcoating flavours – earth, fruits, hints of tabacco and anise. Wow. One mouthful and I was out the door to see if the store still had more. Seriously, I was! Equally seriously, the store didn’t.  Back home, finishing prepping supper and sipping the wine,  these are the times when I wish the LCBO had 375ml bottles of all their wines. I knew this one bottle of Structura was going to leave us wanting at least one more glass. By meal’s end, the fruit was still there, anise (or was that now sweet basil?), and hints of nori, cedar, and tar were all prevalent. 95 points from Neal Martin. Neal, you nailed it. This was a beautiful wine. Now, where is that 375? 

Oct. 15 - Piedmont, Tuscany and some Big Bucks Argentinians

On the surface this looks to be a very good release but you have to have big dollars to take full advantage. Nonetheless there are some very good wines across all price points. The Piedmont Tuscany Focus is an OK representation although for the most part the prices are creeping up as we head to the holiday season. More of the same with the Premium Argentina offerings. That said, there  should be lots from OZ and elsewhere to turn your crank.

My Top 3

 Domaine Grand Veneur ‘Les Champauvins’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $18.95 – Fabulous fruit driven, well priced wine to enjoy with almost anything!

Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi ‘Terre More Dell’Ammiraglia’ 2009 IGT Maremma Toscana $19.95 – A new product from this terrific producer. A highlight of the release for this price.

Two Hands ‘Brave Faces’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro 2010 Barossa Valley, South Australia $33.95 – A super Aussie GSM. If you liked the Rosemount GSM or the Burge Holy Trinity, this’ll be right up your alley. Too bad it's not $29.95

Near misses to the Top 3

La Curciola Chicchivello Langhe Rosso $13.95 – Ready to drink with casual pizza nights. Well priced but let’s not expect too much sophistication, OK?.

Poliziano Vino Nobile de Montepulciano 2007 DOCG Montepulciano $25.95 – Did you enjoy the ’07 Avignonesi VNdM? If so, more of the same here. Very, very  nice.

Durigutti ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2006 Mendoza $26.95 – Big Brother to the recent WSTop 100 Durigutti release, should be very tasty. Not sure it's worth 9 dollars more though.

The rest of the really good ones

Doña Paula ‘Estate’ Malbec 2009 Mendoza $17.95 – Well priced for the quality.

Luigi Bosca Cabernet Reserva 2008 $17.95

Riglos ‘Gran Corte’ 2007 Mendoza $37.95 – Starting to get up there in price – but a nice big wine with something red on the plate.

Navarro Correas Structura Ultra 2006 $34.95. 95 points. Hard to argue with that score!

SXS 2008 Step Two Shiraz $14.95 – The bargain Shiraz in the release.

Elderton ‘Ode to Lorraine’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 – Teeth staining, palate coating big wine.

Tait ‘The Wild Ride’ Shiraz 2007 Southern Flinders, South Australia $19.95 – From a lesser known OZ region.

Pirramimma Petit Verdot 2007 McLaren Vale, South Australia $26.95 –DO you like licorice? Here’s your choice.

A Pair of Whites

Vieil Armand Pinot Gris ‘Ollwiller’ 2007 AOC Alsace Grand Cru $23.95 – Let’s have a Pinot Gris throw down with the Fielding Estate offering below.

Fielding Estate Winery ‘Estate Bottled’ Pinot Gris 2010
VQA Niagara $21.95

Really Big Bucks

Catena Alta Malbec 2008 – $49.95. One of the best Argentinian producers

Luigi Bosca ‘Finca Los Nobles’ Cabernet - Bouchet 2005 Argentina $63.95 – Bosca’s $19 wines are super. I expect big things from this one but premium wine asks a premium price.

Shafer One Point Five 2007 $79.95 In a word, wonderful.

Antinori Pian Delle Vigne 2005 $59.95 – a softer gentler style of Brunello

San Felice Campogiovanni Brunello 2005 $44.95

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo 2005- $42.95

Domaine du Vieux ‘Télégraphe la Crau’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2008 AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $72.95 – Only included because this is a bad year and might be your only chance to ever buy a VT la Crau. A note though, I wouldn’t.

October 1st Vintages release - a few good buys but no 'I've got to have that!'s

The October1st Vintages release has three subfeatures – Syrah/ Shiraz from around the world, How to start a Cellar, and Thanksgiving simplified. Prices are slowly rising as we head to Christmas but there are still some bargains to be had in this release.

Let’s review them in that order, shall we. Syrah starts with old world, Rhone versions from Guigal, one from the North and one from the south. The North is a Cote Rotie which traditionally  includes a soupcon of Viognier – yes I have my beret on for that bit of phrasing. For those who snicker at the Aussies proudly making this blend, here’s where it originated. Snicker no more. The second is a Crozes Hermitage, not to be confused with the Northern Rhone’s very expensive  Hermitage appellation.  Both are expensive for what you’ll get. If I had to choose between these two, I’d go with the ’07 Crozes Hermitage. OZ is next up with 5 offerings from  $17  thru $90. The best of these for me are the Thorn Clarke Terra Barossa 2009 at $`16.95 and the always impressive Ebenezer from Barossa Valley Estates at $39.95. The Mitolo GAM might be as good but it’s more money. The Elderton Command is an amazing wine too but again, too much money by far! Of all the Syrahs from other countries the Fess Parker The Big Easy Syrah is  the best @$34.95

Following the syrahs, the LCBO offers up  Cellar Choices – ironic when you consider that the LCBO has changed their returns policy so that none of the recommended wines could be returned if faulty, if held until the LCBO suggests you hold them. Of all of these, the Luigi Bosca Single Vineyard Malbec is the best QPR choice and is ready for consumption now with a little decant and a bleeding slab of red meat. If you want to try something different go for the Mollydooker Maitre D’ Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a polarizing winery. You either love their wines or hate them. They are BIG, they are viscous, and they are in your face. Subtle and understated? I don’t think so.

The Thanksgiving choices? Try ‘em if you’d like to. I prefer to simplify this further – it’s a turkey, it's gravy, it's stuffing  - just serve and drink what you like.

The rest of the release? There are some good under $20 wines available.

Ontario

The Coyote’s Run Pinot Gris 2009 at $17.95 should be nice.

Argentina – along with the Bosca Malbec try:

LaMadrid single Vineyard Cab Sauv at $13.95 should be a very good buy.

Nieto Senetiner Don Nicanor 2008 $16.95 – a nice blend.

Australia – along with those mentioned above:

The Yalumba FDW 7C Chardonnay – at $23.95 this is from a high quality producer and is a subset of their best grapes. Maybe not 95 points good but very good nonetheless.

Hickinbotham Cab Sauv/ Shiraz 2009 at $15.95 is a screaming buy.

South Africa –

The Post House Penny Black 2008 – $19.95 - The kitchen sink blend with Shiraz, Merlot, Cab Sauv, Petit verdot and a wee touch of Chenin Blanc but it’ll be tasty. Apparently this one failed the LCBO lab testing so was not available.

France

Cave de Roquebrun Roches Noir 2009 - $19.95 – A gold medal winner at Vinalie 2011. Should be very nice.

Hungary

Royal Tokaji 5 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszu 2006 $19.95 for 250 ml – A WS Top 100 dessert wine – nice to finish off Thanksgiving or perhaps try an ice wine throw down?

Italy

A well priced Barolo and a well priced Brunello highlight the Italian section. The Marchesi Di Barolo 2005 at $34.95 is a rerelease I think. The Caparzo Brunello2005 should be a real  buy for Brunello fans at $39.95

Vintages Sept.17th release - Liberace played rugby, who knew!?

The LCBO looks to be giving all the anal retentive early shoppers a head start at their Christmas gift lists with the spread in this week’s Vintages release. There are lots of $15 to $25 wines to spend on but also a truckload of $40 and up wines that seem more destined to be corporate Christmas gifts than to be the usual weekend drinkers. In this release a trio of focused specials also greet the shopper – to this observer’s palate, most rate a pass as in take a pass, not rating a passing grade. Bordeaux ’08 is described as a sleeper vintage – one glass and you’ll be nodding off. Pinots from France and Oregon? Yawn. New Zealand premium wines? Big bucks, but samples just as good of the same grapes are available for half the price. And speaking of New Zealand,  what was the LCBO thinking and where did they find the hand model to hold that rugby ball for the Rugby World Cup? Those look a lot more like Liberace’s fingers  than say, Jonah Lomu’s!
The good news? This is a better release than the last couple.
Top Red Picks
2009 Alaine Jaume Domaine Grand Veneur Clos de Sixte Lirac - $23.95 – Less expensive than in previous years, this should be a smoking wine for the next 4 or 5. My palate loves the GSM’s and this one is no exception!  Alain Jaume is a terrific, high quality Rhone producer. My pick of the release!
2008 Durigutti Mendoza Malbec - $16.95 - #74 in last year’s Wine Spectator Top 100, good to go now over the next few years. At under $17, throw a steak on and let’s get to it!
2008 Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Shiraz / Cabernet / Petit Verdot - $14.95 – Always good value for the price.
2007 Finca Flichman Paisaje de Barrancas Shiraz / Cabernet / Malbec - $17.95 – Could be the real sleeper of the release. A blend of three grapes from a single vineyard site and a real mouthful.
Top White Picks
2009 Gehringer Bros Pinot Gris $17.95 – If you enjoyed their unoaked Chard from earlier this year, or if you’re a fan of Kettle Valley’s Pinot Gris, then I think you’ll like this one. Slight pinkish hue due to the exposure to skins for a short time.
2010 Mount Riley Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc - $15.95 Fans of New Zealand Sauv Blanc – step right up.
2010 Spice Route WO Darling Sauvignon Blanc - $14.95 – A Citric, grassy, SB from South Africa. Well priced to accompany a seafood dish!
The Rest
Jip Jip Rocks 2009 – Scored well but past vintages have left me unimpressed. Perhaps this’ll be better.
2008 Rivera Violante Nero di Troia - $15.95 Well scored by all reviewers (86 to 87 points) and a very solid wine with fall foods or on its own.
 2007 First Press Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - $19.95- First released last year, this is an OK Cali Cab for the money. It was better than I expected it to be last year.
2007 DOURO RESERVA RED from QUINTA DO COA – Wonderful review. If you are a fan of Quinta do Crasto Old Vines Reserva and are P.O.’d that you can’t get more, this will be a close approximation. Slightly tart to bitter annise notes on the finish. Not cheap though. 
Bodegas LAN 2003 at $26.95 is ready to drink now.

Big Bucks, Major Money, Piles o’ pennies
2008 Two Hands Bella's Garden Barossa Shiraz - $63.95 : #2 in the WSTop 100 last year. Is money no object? Line up early and with elbow pads on probably.
2007 Te Mata Hawkes Bay Coleraine  Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot / Cabernet Franc - $59.95- An unusual blend from New Zealand, we don’t see a lot of Cab Sauvs from there to be sure even if they are blended with other grapes.  
2008 Faust Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - $39.95
2004 Ladera Lone Canyon Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - $64.95  
    
 Encore appearance from an earlier Release:
2006 Barone Ricasoli Casalferro 2006 at $39.95  was a very nice big wine on first release.
2009 Perrin La Gille Gigondas - $29.95  - I really like this wine, even at this price. Ageworthy, complex, delicious. 
A couple of Spaniards have been rereleased as well but the 2008 Arrocal at  $15.95 is your best bargain bet.

September 3rd Vintages Release- Blends, an Anniversary, and some Sake

Various Grape Blends, the 150^th Anniversary celebration of Italy combined with Sake make for another forgettable Vintages release. Have we reached the dog days of the Vintages releases? It seems so.  The last two have been in a word, weak.  Next week's mini release of Ontario wines promises more of the same. For  this week's, I might take a pass altogether or buy just one or two bottles out of  all those listed below.

Ah well, Let’s start with the blends. $23.95 seems like a good place to start:

Lavau Gigondas at $23.95, a 2009 this one will benefit from a year or two in a cool dark place or open early and decant it. Good price for a Gigondas from a terrific vintage.

The Inniskillen Dark Horse Meritage 2007 from the Okanagen will be nice with beef or lamb. Luv the Okanagen, especially heads up against the green, vegetable reds from Ontario. Make special note though, the 2011 could be the rare Vintage that Ontario smokes BC in the all Canadian wine awards. It has been a bad spring and summer out there so far.

The three South African blends are all good but go for the price and take the Lammershoek Roulette 2006. It should be ready to drink and is well priced also at $23.95. If you want to spring for something upscale you could do far worse than either the De Toren Z or the Ruste en Vrede 2007 Estate blend, but they are expensive. The best South African might be the Mullineux Shiraz at $28.95. Fire up your food processor - a Moulinex of course - and make something special to go with it...a Mullineux Moulinex masterpiece perhaps. Say that 10 times fast! 

From OZ, go for the Musician Cab / Shiraz 2009 at $19.95, Gotham Shiraz 2009 or the Black Chook Shiraz/Viognier 2009 at $17.95.  All three under $20 will be good.

In keeping with the past $15.00 releases of the LAN Crianza and the Perrin Vinsobres, there is another good looking bargain this month at $15.00. The 2008 Single Vineyard Malbec from LaMadrid should be able to hold its own with $18 to $20 buck Malbecs but might need a bit of time to settle in. Not a case worthy buy, but OK.

Looking for something different from Italy? Try the Aglianico del Vulture. Terrific value at $14.95, this one might be worth considering buying a few but try one first to be sure it matches your palate.

Want a sparkler? Go for the Cremant de Loire Rose at $16.95. I'm liking examples of these Cremants from the Loire and Burgogne more and more.

Whites? Loooking for a Chardonnay? Try the MOMO 2009 at $18.95 from New Zealand or either of the age worthy reislings from Germany should be great now and for many years to come. Best of all, both of them are less than $22.

The Vintages August 20 Release - Better late than never, I suppose.

California’s lesser known regions share the spotlight with the wines of Southern France in the Aug.20  Vintages release. Having been away in BC for the week prior to this release, I’m a little late  reviewing this one  but there weren’t  many  to tempt my palate anyway so I’ll use this as an opportunity to save you some money.

Chateau des Flaugergues Sommeliere 2007 – Well priced at $17.95, this wine exhibits black fruit on the nose with hints of herbs and olive. The big sniff is followed by raspberry ganache/ black cherry on the fore palate with hints of smoke and olive tapenade bringing up the rear. WS had it at #50 in their Top 100. It’s a very nice wine, well priced and ready to consume now or over the next 3 or 4  years. Best of all, there is still some around even today!

Ampelos Gamma Syrah  2006 – From the makers of one of the few Pinot Noirs that I have enjoyed, I expect this to be a big mouthful of sophisticated flavours. A tad pricey at $27.95, but a good bottle from the Santa Rita Hills of California.

Pirramimma  Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 – Could this be the answer to Doug’s quest for an affordable, sophisticated Aussie Cab? I think it might, if $24.95 is not too high a price. Terrific producer across the board.

Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 – as good a price as you’ll find for a quality Napa cab. $29.95 for currants, smoke  and cedar hints.

Les Celettes 2009 – A gold medal winner, this Cotes du Rhone is well priced at $13.95

Domaine de Bila Haut Occultum Lapidem 2008. The ’07 release of this wine was very highly rated by most reviewers but  was lost on me. I expect more of the same here –  I will  avoid it.

August 6th - Where is this summer going? This week, to Chile and BC!

The August 6^th  vintages release from your local Ontario government sponsored purveyor of distilled spirits has a Chilean focus. Good news because that means one of our favourite product lines, the Terrunyo line from Concha Y Toro is represented. I think Terrunyo translates to terroir but perhaps terroir viewed from a uniquely South American perspective. Not so much what the earth gives the wine but rather how the earth shapes the people themselves. Or maybe that’s unique to Argentina.  Anyhow, to me, the Concha Y Toro  Terrunyo Cab is the best $30 Cab Sauv going and I would put it up against any at twice the price. Got your hopes up? Good, now I send them crashing on the rocks of despair! The Cab is not in this release. However, the 2007 Terrunyo Carmenère is. This is a terrific wine -  smoky, spicy, choclatey, ample tannins yet fruit laden. The 2006 was fantastic. The ’07 might be even better and it may be something new for many of you to try. Think Mercabec. Hints of merlot, a soupcon of cabernets  and a dash of malbec, all in one terrific but not cheap wine. Yes I will be buying some.  Terrunyo Block 27 is the standard by which I measure all carmenères.

Also in the release are some BC beauties. They are expensive, but to my palate better than an equivalently priced Ontario offering. There is something to be said for growing grapes in a desert.

My red picks, in order,

CONCHA Y TORO TERRUNYO BLOCK 27 CARMENÈRE 2007 $ 29.95

LES VIGNERONS DE VISAN VISAN CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2007 $ 12.95 – a named village, under $13. Last ‘07 Visan I had was as good as either of the two Gigondas that followed it and they were 2 to 2 and a half times the price! Oh, and they were very good too!

PETER LEHMANN LAYERS RED 2008 $ 17.95 – A Rhone blend from OZ with an added touch of tempranillo – so let’s call him Pedro Lehmann this week!

SANTA EMA RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008  A bit coarse, tannin wise, but black fruit and loamy $ 16.95

TERRA D'ALIGI TATONE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2007  $ 15.95 – always very good.

ROCCA DELLE MACÌE CHIANTI RISERVA 2006 $ 15.95 – I’m not sure if the wine matches the review in the Vintages book. Buyer beware, do your own DD.

2008 KARMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON PASO ROBLES $ 15.95 – Paso Robles doesn’t have the cachet or the big buck prices of Napa but the wines are very good.

Five Chardonnays! OMG, Blame it on the heat!

GLEN CARLOU CHARDONNAY 2008 $ 17.95 – South Africa – my pick as the best Chard in the release.

2009 VASSE FELIX CHARDONNAY $ 19.95 –OZ – My pick as the other best chard in the release.

MONTES ALPHA CHARDONNAY 2007  $ 19.95 –Chile – not quite up to the previous two, but close.

2008 CHARDONNAY 3 RIVERS COLUMBIA Valley $ 19.95

BURROWING OWL CHARDONNAY 2008 $ 32.95 – Love the winery, like the wine, hate the price.

Big Bucks

SIGNORELLO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 $ 59.95 – Perennially this is a year end top pick by  Anthony Gismondi. Either he knows the owners or it’s really, really good. I don’t know the owners and past  bottles I’ve had were in the really, really good category.

LA VELONA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 $ 42.95

MONTES PURPLE ANGEL 2007  $ 49.95 – ready to drink according to the review, this is a blend of Carmenère and Petit Verdot. Should be everything that the Terrunyo is plus a bit more with the addition of licorice hints from the Petit Verdot. Superb wine but big $$’s too.  94 points from Parker if it matters to you.