No time for bad wine - Geyser Peak is headed back!

Last week I recommended the Walking Tree Cabernet from Geyser Peak. This week I'm recanting that recommendation. The wine is short, fruit seems both green and prematurely oxidized, tannins are there but not in concert with the wine. All in all a very disappointing  bottle. Perhaps it was the beginning of  a headcold? Nope, my wife shared my opinion - from the first mouthful to the last it was drudgery to drink. Served with BBQ'd Whole Foods filets ( holy crap, pricewise they're the LCBO of food stores), I expected a dynamic duo, a perfect pair on the palate. Too bad, they were great steaks! I bought two of the Geyser Peaks - where's that receipt? The second one is headed back.

August 18 - Southern Rhone, PNW, and Sake

The August 18^th release is almost upon us which means we’re in the home stretch of another summer. Good Grief, where did it go? Weather wise, it has been spectacularly warm. Vintages release wise? Not so hot.  This release seems to be a continuation of that trend. Originally, when I read the focal points of this release were to be the Rhone and Pacific Northwest I thought “Oh boy, I’m going to love this one.”, but after giving the release notes a quick perusal, mmmmm, not so much.  These two wine producing areas should yield a bonanza of wine selections. Somehow though the LCBO has managed to put as few wines as possible per page and make it into a boring rehash. The VRSS comes in at 62 for what had the possibility to be no less than an 81 to 84 VRSS point release!

The 2010 Southern Rhone should offer some very good alternatives. But please, 10 pages to sell only 13 different wines? That’s a remarkably wasteful and inefficient use of both printed material and bits and bytes.  The Pacific Northwest focus , which completely underwhelms with a staggeringly low  6 wines on 8 pages is even worse. Seeing how many cases of each wine they’re bringing in (where are you when I need you Michael Vaughan of Vintage Assessments?) may change my opinion but the $ performance per page for this release appears to be absolutely mind numbing to anyone familiar with a real retail business!

The third focus this week is Sake. I like sake once in a while with my sushi but I actually prefer a beer or two.  I never consider it other times. Result? The Sake section is a complete nonstarter for me. YMMV.

THE RHONE

The Rhone opens with two entry level Cotes du Rhones and a CdR Villages. It’s an inauspicious beginning  when the same winery is shown to have two different owners (Farjon Besnardeau  and  Barjon Besnardeau. Who proof reads these things? It’s Farjon by the way).  Either way, Domaine les Grand Bois has two wines here. One’s a Cotes du Rhone, the other a CdR V. Both should be good if a bit overpriced. Cambie’s Halos de Jupiter is also good but I expect we’ll get as good for less as more samples of the  2010 vintage show up in later Vintages releases.

Among the named villages (and ignoring for the moment Chateauneuf du Pape), Vacqueyras and Gigondas are my favourites but Cairanne and Vinsobres are always good as well.  It seems like yesterday that  Vintages sold 5000 cases of  Perrin’s  Vinsobres Les Cornuds at a cool $15. And this year’s comes in at $17.95. Is that a 20% increase year over year? Yes it is! Nice negotiating there LCBO. A new label should not cost me $2.95 more!  I’ll  negotiate by  taking a pass on the Vinsobres for now and recommend you readers do the same. Too bad – it’s a good wine but ….

PICK # 1- GIGONDAS PERRIN LA GILLE 2010 - $29.95 – Not cheap but worth it if you have somewhere to keep the wine for a few years. On the nose, expect olive notes, dark berry fruits, hints of meat and as it opens taste it pass through raspberry and blackberry fruitiness. Nice wine but does need some time. I had a 2006 last week that was superb. Tannins? Soft and completely integrated. The Clos de Cazeaux might be almost as good but for less.

DOMAINE GRANDY VACQUEYRAS 2010 – At $18.95 this is a well priced WoM and there should be lots around. A touch fruitier and more approachable now than the Gigondas but also substantially less expensive.

See the Big Bucks notes below for the Chateauneuf du Pape picks available in this release

PACIFIC  NORTHWEST

The lone possible pick among  the Pacific northwest wines is the 2009 COLUMBIA CREST  H3 Cabernet. This  is a rerelease (A special focus and they rerelease wines and vintage) of a very good, if slightly overpriced  wine. It’s not quite up to the merlot from the same vineyard in the last few years but it’s still a very good cab sauv option especially around a BBQ. It’s also my only reco from this focus, although the also rereleased Ste. Michelle Chard is always good.

THE REST OF THE RELEASE

 WAKEFIELD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009 $17.95 – From the cooler  (for Oz) Clare valley, Wakefield’s products always offer terrific value and quality. Better price than the H3 and equal in every way.

PICK #2  GEYSER PEAK BLOCK COLLECTION WALKING TREE VINEYARD 2007 $28.95 – Always tasty and rich. A real mouth full of cassis hits, some cedar notes. Big.  I’m a sucker for the Geyser Peak Block Collection wines and am not ashamed to admit it. But it’s expensive compared to the H3 or the Wakefield so I could waffle as it gets closer to time to open the wallet!

SUMMERS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008 – At $29.95 there is quality in the bottle and it’s a toss up between this and the Geyser Peak but I know the Geyser Peak. DO I spring for a couple of both or just load up on the H3/ Wakefield combo?

EVANS AND TATE METRICUP ROAD SHIRAZ 2009 $19.95 A WoM from Western Australia wine, so expect more subtlety  than the ZONTE’S FOOTSTEPS  and perhaps a bit more sophistication. Grilled lamb anyone?

ZONTE’S FOOTSTEPS LAKE DOCTOR SHIRAZ $16.95. – This one hails from the Langhorne Creek region so you can taste the regional differences between there and the Barossa if you still have some of the recently released Baron von Nemesis. Not a bad price for another  BIG, bold Aussie.

PICK #3 RENZO MASI CHIANTI RISERVA 2008 Another $15.95 bargain – Reviewed as a  smart buy  by Bruce Sanderson in Wine Spectator, this should provide instant pleasure at such a good price!

ALTESINO ROSSO DI ALTESINO 2009 $18.95 – From an excellent producer of Brunellos, this wine gets additional oomph from touches of cab and merlot. Very tasty and easy to drink.

DI MAJO NORANTE CONTADO RESERVA AGLIANICO DEL MOLISE 2009 - $15.95 and 91 points from Galloni? A buy if you like tarry, licorice-y fruity wines. So close to being a pick!

CELLAR BESLLUM 2008 – A nice Spanish option at $15.95. This one earned  93 points from Jay Miller, the 90 point man himself. Expect fruit, smoke, tar and even leather on this youngish wine. Could be a real bargain.

TORBRECK’S WOODCUTTER BAROSSA SHIRAZ 2010 – Don’t do it! At $30.95, this wine has steadily increased in price over the last few years and is no longer worth the $$’s. It should be mid twenties at most and $19.95 on promotion. It’s among Torbreck’s entry level wines.  If you do spring for it, decant carefully first as it’s unfined and unfiltered. If you don’t decant, pour with a gentle hand and you’ll want to beware of the chewy gunk in the final glasses. Wine gunk can be like fresh spinach when strained  through your teeth – not too nice to look at!

BIG BUCKS

VERBENA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2007 – Terrific score from Monica Larner, even if it’s three points less at 91 this is pretty well priced for a Brunello at $37.95

Among the Chateauneuf du Papes available in this release I’d spring for the SAINT SIFFREIN first, then perhaps the BOSQUET DES PAPES  CUVEE TRADITION.  Even very young, the 2009 Saint Siffrein was excellent.

SBRAGIA MONTE ROSSO VINEYARD 2006 – At $54.95, this one isn’t cheap but comes with a pedigree and will age for some time.

August 4th - Showtime? More like slowtime. Blockbusters? I don't think so.

Another “Gee, they get paid for that?” release from the buyers at Vintages.  A few new wines to try out and a few old favourites to replenish with but  by and large a release that if you miss it, you won’t really be too upset.  The ‘Summer Blockbusters’ are anything but. Only a couple of them are worthy of the moniker blockbuster  and even then only if your idea of a blockbuster is  Repo Man. The Romance movie equivalents seem to be stuck in the paradigm that only French or Italians are capable of romance. The ‘Action’ entries are not the vinous equivalents of Dirty Harry but are more like  Sleepless in Seattle.  These wines all make a statement and the statement isn't  “Make my day”, it's more like “I’ll have what she’s having!”

The other focal point is 5 single vineyard German reislings (and a Gerwurtz).  I think Kung Fu Girl might kick their asses.

The VRSS total is 62 this week.

 ARGENTINA

PASCUAL TOSO RESERVE MALBEC 2009 594 cases $19.95

BENMARCO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010 (Dominio del Plata) 539 cases $17.95 – A nice sample of a simple, reasonably priced  Arg. Cabernet.

CICCHITTI GRAN RESERVA MALBEC 2004 259 cases $21.95 – This one has some age on it – should be smooth and will show you what your malbecs can become if you take care of them or can leave them alone for long enough.

AUSTRALIA

Pick #2 - SCHILD ESTATE OLD BUSH VINE GMS  299 cases $21.95 – Nice political paragraph about what a pillar Mr. Schild is (overlooking and in spite of getting caught with his pants down in their WS Top 100 fiasco).  I’ll give Schild the benefit of the doubt and hope they are working hard to overcome that black eye from a few years back, this one should be a tasty Southern Rhone blend from OZ.

Pick #3 –Tie-  PIRRAMIMMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009  999 cases $24.95 – I’m a fan. Excellent producer and their cab is always on par with their Shiraz .

GRANT BURGE BAROSSA SHIRAZ 2010 728 cases $18.95 – Reasonably priced for a quality producer.

PETER LEHMANN LAYERS 790 cases $17.95 – A juicy crowd pleaser for back yard BBQs.

 CANADA BRITISH COLUMBIA

Pick #3 –Tie-  SANDHILL SMALL LOTS ONE 2008 111 cases $36.95 – Ok, so it’s too expensive for what you get but if I’m going to buy a Canadian red, I’d  buy some of these before anything with Niagara on the label. Why?  Bigger, blacker fruit, cedar hints, a touch of olive, and usually far fewer  green notes.

MIDI

 Pick #3 –Tie-  Picked on price alone. DOMAINE LES YEUSES LES EPICES - $13.95 for a gold medal winner seems too good to pass up. Expect peppery  syrah flavours.

 CHÂTEAU D'ANGLÈS LA CLAPE CLASSIQUE  449 cases $14.95 – Well priced from one of the best wine growing regions in the Languedoc.

RHÔNE

 Pick #1 - DOMAINE DU GRAPILLON D'OR GIGONDAS 2010   499 cases $28.95  - Consistently a very well made wine, but will need some time.  Vintages first foray into the 2010’s from Gigondas, this was another wonderful vintage in all of the Southern Rhone.

SPAIN

BURGO VIEJO GRAN RESERVA 2001 Rioja – Decanter Gold medal winner and 11 years old  for $21.95. Long and leather-y  -  don’t expect a fruit bomb!

 CALIFORNIA

PLUME CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009   223 cases $29.95 – First vintage from a new Okanagan – Napa combo entry.

Pick #3 –Tie-  BEAULIEU VINEYARD BV TAPESTRY RESERVE 2008   207 cases $34.95 – Try this and the Sandhill blind. You might be surprised!

BIG BUCKS

A pair of Brunelli 
The first  one an ISD, 39 cases of 12 of the CAPANNA BRUNELLO 2007 @$45.95 which was scored 97 points by the Wine Enthusiast and 93 points by Antonio Galloni. The other, the PININO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2006   329 cases $38.95 – A reasonable price for a sometimes brilliant, sometimes only average Brunello.  History has shown this wine to be an adventure because the same vintage, no the same case,  can supply you with both ends of that spectrum! Watch for the Capanna. It'll be in a very limited number of stores and I expect it'll be a dog fight for those few cases! If you see one, buy one.

OTHELLO 2008 (Christian Moueix)   249 cases $41.95 – Full of pomp and circumstance, at this price, here's a wine you'll love not wisely but  too well.  Available only in Japan and Ontario but was originally available on the Scottish Moors (ok bad review and even worse geographic pun based on Othello being a Moor which I know has nothing to do with Scotland but at least I tucked way down here so only the serious readers have to put up with its badness)!

July 21st Vintages release - Cool climate gets a cold shoulder

Cool climate wines seem to be the rage lately.  I suppose the conventional thinking is that this might be a good thing for Ontario wines  as it'll show  that they can compete in both flavour and sophistication if the temperature ranges of the producing regions are similar. That thought process requires a real leap of faith and requires we take into account at least two variables:

·         that some of these regions have a very narrow vinofocus and  their wine, cuisine and culture have symbiotically evolved over centuries to adapt to that focus

·         that other regions are not really cool so much as comparatively cool. Take for example  Australia Cool. How many ice wines are produced in their so called  ‘cool climates’?

 If Oz has ‘cool climate’ wines then certainly Ontario produces  ‘cold climate’ examples, so case closed  methinks. Anyhow, cool is the focus this week (OZ and the Loire). I’ll continue that theme by turning a cold shoulder to this release.  July 21 offers up a 57 to 60 point release in the VRSS (my humble opinion). A very few ‘must haves’ and most of the wines presented  that fall into the nice to have  category are already represented by very similar examples in the cellar. As with many of the recent releases, the whites and fizzies  are as interesting as many of the reds being offered. Since I’m not terribly interested in whites and fizzies , what does that leave me with?  Well, more disposable income, I suppose.

FIZZIES and/ or SPARKLERS, those carefree, effervescent little buggers for summer sipping

Joseph Cattin Brut Cremant d’Alsace - $16.95

Tenuta S. Anna Prosecco Superiore de Valdobbiadene - $18.95

WHITE WINES

2010 Ken Forrester Reserve Chenin Blanc - $17.95 – Across the board  this one rates over 90 points and for a wine this good, is also well priced.  WS: 90 pts; WA: 92 pts; W E: 90 pts  

2010 Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling - $18.95 – Another  ‘off centre’ name and wine from Washington States’s  eponymous Rock and Roll winery, Charles Smith. Very tasty (citrus-y with little or no petrol) and always good,  Charles Smith wines are to be enjoyed  right from the store or after a year or three aging.   WS: 90 points  

2009 Red Hill Estate Chardonnay - $21.95 – The review , even taking into account James Halliday’s inflatomatic scoring of Aussie wines (94pts?), is a good one.  Could be worth a try.

2010 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko / Athiri - $16.95 – something slightly off the beaten path from Greece. WS: 90 points  

2010 Martin Codax Albarino $16.95–  Another off the beaten path wine  serve chilled with ceviche or lightly breaded crab cakes perhaps.  Very well scored white 87 to 90 points 

RED WINES

2009 Altocedro Reserva Malbec - $24.95 – This might be the best red wine option in the release. It is the best if you like big juicy black fruited accompaniments to slabs of red flesh being seared on a grill. From La Consulta in the Uco Valley within Mendoza. Some regard this as the finest grape growing region in Argentina and certainly this wine does nothing to contradict that opinion.  A great big wine for a great big steak but also at a pretty big price. WA and WS: 92 points

2009 Clos de los Siete - $21.95 – A Michel Rolland investment in big tannic juiciness, this too will stand up to anything grilled.  As the vineyard grows up, so too does the wine. WA: 90 pts;  WS: 89 pts; Tanzer  90 pts

2009 Summers Napa Cabernet Sauvignon - $29.95 A 90 point Napa cab for under 30 bucks? Ok, I’ll bite! Robert Parker: 91 points; Wine Enthusiast: 90 points

2010 Domaine La Guintrandy Cotes de Rhone-Villages Visan Le Deves - $14.95 – Try one, then buy a bunch is my bet.

The Australian cool climate release looks less than stellar. There are some interesting wines but none that really, really  turn my crank and none of them are real terrific values. Of the Aussies in the release, the following  ones are my selections, but I’d take the two (maybe the three) Argentines and try the Napa cab before them:

 2008 Tahbilk Shiraz - $20.95 Lisa Perrotti-Brown: 91 pts – A very good wine from what I would describe as a traditional Aussie  producer .

2008 Camelback Shiraz - $27.95 Lisa Perrotti-Brown says 92 points  - A man is not a camel.  Hmmm, at the same time a camel is not a man. Just as well or there’d be far less wine around!  Enough philosophy, on with the drinking! And please note there was no off colour 'camel' related reference made during this wine review.

2010 Tyrrell Rufus Stone Heathcote Shiraz - $19.95 – An OK wine but shouldn’t be more than $17.95. Hello LCBO, are you out there?

2009 Durigutti Malbec – $16.95- A former WS top 100 producer, this’ll be a good BBQ wine for burgers or sausages and casual  get togethers . Nothing too sophisticated, just lots of dark fruit and soft tannins.

2009 Gabriel Meffre Laurus Gigondas - $26.95  - Not a bad price for an ‘almost CNdP’ WS: 91 points’ Is it better to wait for the 2010 Grapillon D’Or in the next release? Or buy both? Such a conundrum!

2009 The Show Cabernet Sauvignon - $17.95 – Another  easy drinking summer BBQ wine from California that you can age for a few years  if you can stay away from it for long enough.

2009 Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore - $18.95 – If you like the Vintages essential Zenato Ripasso, try this one. It’s a few $’s less and usually very good. I W C: 90 points

ROSÉ WINES

2011 Chateau St. Roch Syrah / Grenache rosé - $14.95 – The best rosé choice this week but only if you’re out of rosé and have to have a new one. Otherwise, save a few bucks and look around for past rosé picks @ $12.95.

BIG BUCKS

2009 Delas Haute Pierre Chateauneuf du Pape - $37.95 – JM in WS: 92 points  - not cheap but age worthy and a terrific vintage.  

2006 Livio Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino - $47.95 – From the terrific ’06 vintage, expect smoke, tar, more red fruits than black - WS: 94 points

Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz 2009 $35.95 - The 2008 was released in November and covered in a blog entry at that time. It’s a great name and cleverly marketed by Plunkett Fowles but once the cork is pulled, that cleverness doesn’t taste quite as fulfilling as the price indicates it should. Good with squirrel though.

July 7th Vintages release - an improvement over the last few

A better release than the recent ones that the LCBO has foisted upon us, this one actually contains a number of attainable and desirable wines. Helped in large part by the ‘Stones’ being delayed from May, this week’s release climbed over the 70 point mark in the VRSS (Vintages Release scoring system) , coming in at 72 points overall.

 WS Top 100 fans will like it because there are three wines that scored well enough and were well priced enough to make that list.  From an overall perspective, the Tour de France doesn’t quite merit the yellow jersey while the cool Climate Chards and the Governor General’s awards hold little interest.  On the plus side, South Africa’s white wines are not without some interesting options.

Reds

2009 Mas D'Auzieres Sympathie Pour Les Stones - $19.95 – Originally 250 cases were to have been released in the May 26, 2012 release. Oh crap, here I go again with the Mick  impression…This wine was universally praised by Ontario reviewers at that time. I suppose they were able to taste samples of it even if the balance of the shipment was late arriving. Or was it improperly labeled? With any luck a combination of things will happen:

• The reviewers  will not rereview it and so the masses will forget about how good it was
• We will receive the same lot numbers as the reviewers tasted earlier in May so we will actually get what they tasted.  As it was then, it is my Number 1 pick.

You also won’t go wrong with anything from the Tuscany section of this release but there are a few that really stand out:

2009 Argiano NC Non Confunditur - $24.95 – 249 cases of the #46 wine from the  Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2011 & 92 points. I’m not sure why the LCBO didn’t highlight the Top 100 info since it did for the others in this release.

2009 Fonterutoli Chianti Classico - $25 95 – 349 cases, this one was #49 on Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2011 & 92 points & Smart Buys 

Poggio Bonelli Chianti Classico Reserva 2007 – 249 cases of another well scored CCR from the ’07 vintage, this one should be just coming into its prime now. 

E Guigal Gigondas 2009 – Almost 500 cases of an annual treat. Lots of everything going on here. Licorice, smoked meat, weeds,(ok, garrigue),  big fruit. Age worthy and very, very nice.

Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 from Chile is always very good value at $19.95 and  available in this release for $17.95. There’ll be 839 cases of it.

Those looking for a well priced (by Ontario standards at least) Washington State Cab Sauv could do worse than the Hogue 2007 Cab at $17.95. 500 plus cases – expect something similar to the recently released  Chateau Smith for a few dollars less. This’ll be fruitier and softer than the big Chilean above.

2009 Chateau du Donjon Grande Tradition Minervois - $12.95 600 cases but at this price it may blow out by the boxload. From the midi this one is not only very well priced but should also taste delightful. If you like Cotes Du Rhone style wines (only from the Languedoc), I think you’ll be pleased.

Cave de Rasteau La Domeliere 2009 with 1331 cases coming in and a $15.00 price point there’ll be lots to choose from.

Two Hands Sexy Beast Cabernet 2011 will need some time and at $29.95 is expensive compared to most of those above. There’ll be 449 cases but leave it alone for a few years unless you like Welch’s grape juice and vodka-style.

Hickinbotham Cabernet/ Shiraz  2009  should be a massive mouthful at  a reasonable $16.95 and there are almost 1200 cases being released.

2007 Nashwauk McLaren Vale Shiraz – 450 cases at $19.95  - Repeat of a  Feb. 2011 release. OK around the BarBQ but if you miss it, no big deal.

Domaine Durand 2009 Les Coteaux St. Joseph – Should be a tasty 100% Syrah, Parker scored it 90 – 93 points and liked the licorice aromas and intense fruit.

2008 Seppelt Chalambar Shiraz – 519 cases, based strictly on price it finishes up the track to the blend and the Shiraz above.$24.95

Whites

2010 Vinum The Winery of Good Hope Chenin Blanc - $14.95 – Well scored and a tasty departure from the Chards  below.

Kim Crawford 2011 unoaked Chardonnay – $17.95 - 610 cases of bursting pure fruit. No oak so if you like those big buttery chards, you may not like this one.

2008 Kumeu River Kumeu Estate Chardonnay – 167 cases $34.95 - #78 on Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2011 & 92 points.

Sterhuis Barrel Selection Chardonnay 2009 – At $25.95 this could be a better buy than the Kumeu but without the Top 100 score. 

June 23rd Vintages Release - Who Cares?

10 pages of cocktail recipes , ‘Summer Sippers’ and a Canada Day special add up to another “Who Cares?” release from our friends at the monopoly.  The cocktails especially are better suited to ‘Food and Drink’ and beg the question  “Does lime juice have a vintage?” This week’s release scores 50 out of 100*. That means it was delivered. There are no ‘must have’ wines in it but I might try one or two of the first four reds listed below.

*See last release’s review for a  summary of my 100 point Vintages release scoring system.

WHITES

CASA DO VALLE GRANDE ESCOLHA 2011 $14. This is Vinho  Verde priced closer to where it should be.  Floral and ripe citrus and a smooth, creamy texture. Tangy lemon peel and minerality on the  finish. Pair with sushi or deep fried calamari.

REDS

ZONTE’S FOOTSTEP BARON VON NEMESIS SHIRAZ 2008 $17.95 Dreadful name but inside the bottle is a terrific wine offering a smooth mouthful of dark cherry, plum, and hints of black olive. Score: 91 (Harvey Steiman)

KAESLER STONEHORSE SHIRAZ/GRENACHE/MOURVÈDRE 2008  $20.95  A  GSM from the Barossa, think of this as an Aussie Vacqueyras,  62/28/10 blend, mostly in stainless steel; no new oak. Aromas of blueberry, fresh plum, and espresso lead to flavours of  black and blue fruit, bitter chocolate and spice.  Nice, long finish. Score: 91 (Josh Raynolds)

RAMÓN BILBAO RESERVA 2005  DOC  Rioja  One of this month’s  $17.00 Food and Drink specials, (Gee weren’t they $15 a few months ago?) Wine & Spirits magazine awarded this wine a score of 90 points (Dec. 2010) to go with the Decanter  5 star rating. Dark, subtle, and perfumed with 7 years age on it now this should be right in its drinking window. 

CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CARMENÈRE 2010 $17.00 Not badly priced but I ask again, where did those short lived  $15.00 specials go (very nice wines at very nice prices)?  Dry, medium bodied with dark raspberry and black cherry  flavours, match up to anything grilled or roasted. 

MONTES ALPHA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009  $19.95 Priced where the Simi should be, this cabernet offers good value. Black currants and cherry aromas, chocolate and warm spice with hints of mint.  Terrific young, the palate has a freshness with similar, berry flavours,  spice and tobacco. Score: 91 (Daenna Van Mulligen)

SIMI CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008 $24.95 Sourced from vineyards across the Alexander Valley, at $5.00 less this would offer true value.  Aged for 24 months in French and American small oak barrels, which impart notes of toffee, smoke and baking spices that mesh with the concentrated black cherry and blackcurrant flavours. 

LE GRAVILLAS SABLET 2010  AC Côtes du Rhône-Villages  $14.95 This wine was awarded a Gold Medal at the 2011 Concours Général Agricole in Paris. A solid wine at a good price, it’s medium bodied with  fruit and spice on the palate. Some  tannic grip accompanies the good length.

BIG BUCKS

STAG’S LEAP WINE CELLARS ARTEMIS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007  $46.95 Napa  A big rich Cab to cellar. Blackberries, currants and sweet dark chocolate. Needs to rest in the dark for a while, it should improve in the bottle over the next 5 years at least. Score: 94 (Steve Heimoff, Wine Enthusiast)

TRIINITY HILL THE GIMBLETT 2009 – At $35.95, this is an uncommonly good,  tempting Bordeaux blend from NZ.

LIONELLO MARCHESI COLDISOLE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2006 93 points from Galloni and $41.95, this is worth a look if you have the wallet for it.

  

Vintages June 9th - Dad's Day, Chile, and the South of France

The previous Vintages release was the annual  90+ point edition and it got me thinking that perhaps I should begin to score the Vintages releases using the same 100 point scale. So from now on I’ll follow the Parker 100 point scoring method for each release.  As Parker scores a bottle of wine for just showing up, so will I give 50 points to Vintages for the physical catalogue just showing up in my Canada Post mailbox. If the LCBO discontinues that physical delivery, then so will I discontinue the free 50 points.  From there, if there are rosées  that I must buy, I’ll give them 2 points per wine to a max of 6. If there are bubblies that I must buy?  3 points per wine to a maximum of 6. Bubbly rosées  will be counted in  the bubbly category.  Whites that I must buy? 3 points to a maximum of 9. And the reds  that I must buy? 3 Points per wine to an unlimited maximum.  Extra points can be awarded for what I deem to be ‘exceptional value’. Yes you are correct, there won’t be many of those. Likewise points can be subtracted for what I perceive to be price gouging. And again you are correct, I do expect we’ll see more than a few of those situations.  Best of all since it’s my scoring scale I get to score what’s important to me. Does this mean the LCBO can have 100 point Vintages releases? Yes. Will it? Time will tell.  I scored this week’s release  62 (out of 100).

The release  focuses on Chile, Southern France and  what seems to be an afterthought  Father’s day feature.  It appears our Vintages friends have taken to watching Chile’s Food Network and the South of France Travel Network instead of focusing on buying the best wines for the best prices.  Other than my one favourite standby (or is that standbuy?), Chile is for the most part a disappointment. While there are a few  interesting  wine options available from the Languedoc in Southern France, nothing from there really jumps out at me. 

ROSÉ

CODORNÍU PINOT NOIR BRUT ROSÉ CAVA Spain, $17.95 At least now I can say that I enjoy pinot noir even if it’s just in a bubbly rosé. Fragrant nose, full of ripe cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. The palate is dry and brisk, with a lengthy, fruity finish.  

WHITE

 COYOTE’S RUN BLACK PAW VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2010 175 cases of 12 $21.95, Niagara.  A complex, single vineyard Chardonnay that shows butterscotch, vanilla, poached pear and touch of citrus zest on the nose. On the palate, it’s a bit more robust with notes of mineral, flint and well integrated fruit.  Indications are that this can be cellared for a few years as well.

REDS, in the order I’ll probably  pick ‘em.

 CONCHA Y TORO TERRUNYO VINEYARD SELECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009 Maipo Valley 396 cases of 6 $29.95   Cassis, raspberry, cherry and woodsmoke accented by subtle spice. At less than half the price of its famous brother  Don Melchor, it’ll age nicely for 5 to 7 years in the cellar and only after that will the Don Melchor  pedigree  begin to assert itself. So maybe it’s not quite as ageworthy, big deal! Even with that mid term cellaring  potential, it’ll be drinking very well now (but decant please) served with a slab of something red on the plate. 

ROMAIN DUVERNAY VACQUEYRAS 2009 400 cases of 12 $24.95 While both Vacqueyras are very good, go for price over age and take this one. 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 15% Mourvedre aged in tank and old wood so it’ll be less oaky than some may be accustomed to.  A veritable cornucopia of aromas and flavours including  charcoal, licorice, chocolate and sweet blackberry and kirsch fruit. Broad, full-bodied and concentrated, it should drink well for a decade. Score: 93 (Robert Parker Jr)

CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008 198 cases of 12 $19.95 A spicy big red with a subtle tobacco and chocolate scents  giving way to ripe fruit flavors. The texture shows fine, peppery tannins  complementing the ripe fruit and providing an elegance that belies the price.  In spite of the 93 points score, I’m not sure this is up to their Indian Wells offering, but it’s close.

NORTON RESERVA MALBEC 2008 $17.95 699 cases of 12 A plush big wine offering  velvety blackberry, fig paste and black currant jam notes backed by raspberry ganache and espresso. Well priced for the quality. Score: 90 (James Molesworth)

DOMAINE DES FÉES CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2010 499 cases of 12 $14.95  Unfiltered. If I recall correctly this is the first of the 2010 CdR’s and CdRV’s to hit the Vintages shelves. Grenache and Syrah,  try one  to compare the new vintage to your  ‘09’s so you can see the effect that light ageing  has on the wines.  A bargain compared to Vacqueyras, Gigondas and Chateauneuf du Pape.  Score: 90 (Robert Parker Jr)

HEGARTY CHAMANS NO. 2 GRENACHE/MOURVÈDRE/CINSAULT 2009 279 cases of 12 $21.95 “smells of cinnamon-dusted, lily- and peony-garlanded, candied cherry” , now wait just a minute! How many of you out there have even bothered to smell  your lilies or peonies never mind make a garland of them, dust them with cinnamon then lay them on candied cherries and smell that?  Schildknecht’s reviews get  me everytime!

MONT TAUCH LE TAUCH FITOU 2009 299 cases of 12 $19.95 A blend of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache received a Decanter World Wine Awards  Gold Medal in 2011.   Juicy raspberry and blueberry aromas. Mouth-watering, chunky black currant fruit palate with chalky notes. Chewy tannins and bold acidity. Score: 5 stars out of 5 from Decanter.

DOMAINE PIQUEMAL TRADITION 2009 399 cases of 12 $15.95 Unfiltered and bargain priced,  this earned a Gold Medal at the Concours Général  Agricole 2011 in Paris.

MONTIRIUS  LE CLOS VACQUEYRAS 2007 199 cases of 12 $28.95  Organic, if that matters to you, and a quality producer. Has steadily increased in price for no apparent reason and in spite of a devalued euro.  50/50 Grenache and Syrah, the 2007 vintage exhibits  kirsch liqueur, licorice, and  herbs, and a full-bodied, long finish. 

CHÂTEAU DU TRIGNON GIGONDAS 2006 219 cases of 12  $29.95 Right in the drinking window for this more classically styled vintage (compared to ’05 or ’07). Tea, dried plum, raspberry and fruitcake notes backed by a long perfumy, minerally finish. Drink now through 2016. $29.95

GÉRARD BERTRAND GRAND TERROIR GRENACHE/SYRAH 2009 349 cases of 12 $18.95 From a Languedoc  producer of some of my ‘well priced’ favourites, this should really be  a buck less.  The nose has cassis, cedar and bright floral aromas. Medium bodied  with  a sweet core of cherry and ripe cassis flavours.

ARDAL CRIANZA 2005 Ribera del Duero 489 cases of 12 $16.95 A ready aged blend of Tempranillo and  Cabernet Sauvignon. Grill something red!   

LUIGI BOSCA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009 599 cases of 12 $17.95 This well-balanced Cab shows off the ripe cassis and blackberry fruit as well as the toasty wood and mocha flavours. A good value for the barbecue season, so throw some thick cut steaks on the grill and enjoy! 

BIG BUCKS

FONTANAFREDDA SERRALUNGA D’ALBA BAROLO 2007 DOCG 199 cases of 12  $29.95 Don’t get too excited about this price, the bottles are 500ML, not 750s. The good news is they’ll age faster in bottle and they’re a superb  Barolo to have when you feel like more wine but can’t face a full sized bottle. In the ’07 look for delicate floral aromas, then espresso, chocolate, and black cherry. Notes say drink after 2018 but I finished my last bottle of the 2005 just last week and it was superb. Score: 94 (Monica Larner)

MARZIANO ABBONA PRESSENDA BAROLO 2007 DOCG 199 cases of 12  $43.95  Sweet black cherries, menthol, spices and licorice all come together in this deep, satisfying Barolo. Needs a few years in the cellar. Antonio Galloni says “This is a fabulous effort. “Anticipated maturity:  2015-2027. Score: 94

BARONE RICASOLI CASTELLO DI BROLIO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2008 DOCG 199 cases of 12 $59.95   Suckling had the ’06 vintage of this wine as the WSTop 100 #5 wine of the year so his review is no surprise. It was a smokin’ wine then and this one’ll  be the same I suspect. Big Bucks!  Score: 94 (James Suckling, jamessuckling.com )

 POGGIOTONDO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2006 DOCG 399 cases of 12  $34.95  Very well priced for an ’06 Brunello.   The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Poggiotondo is a big wine but despite its size and richness the wine shows both nuance and balance. These qualities echo on the finish with hints of smoke, tar and incense. Not for the fruit bomb fans out there. Score: 93 (Antonio Galloni, May 2011)

MITOLO SAVITAR SHIRAZ 2008  McLaren Vale 63 cases of 12 $54.95 – With the very limited number of cases to be made available, this really should be an ISD. Get there early if you expect to see a bottle  never mind buy one!  Sourced  from a select part of the GAM block this’ll be that McLaren Vale almost black purple with blackberry and cassis notes and it’ll hint at balsamic. Full-bodied with concentrated dark berry and spice flavours. Only 63 cases in the province so why waste page space on it? Score: 93+ (Lisa PerrottiBrown)