Monday, July 14, 2014

July 21st release - An OK midsummer release - but who screwed up the search feature on the website?

The LCBO and Vintages websites have suffered a real setback lately. Someone has messed with the search feature, finally fixed the messed up search function which used to work reasonably well once you discovered its foibles, so now it doesn't works worth a darn. More on that when I have some time do really vent!

Mid July has arrived along with a release that presents lots of variety in wine styles,  geographic locales,  new world vs.  old world options, and interesting choices among the reds,  whites and roses. While there are no truly compelling wines like last release’s Hamilton Russell or Villa Cafaggio, there are still lots of choices from which to choose.  More good news is that even among the big buck options, few will break the bank. Any that would  break my bank are ignored.
BBQ wines and I4C (International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration) are the features in this release and both features have representatives in the vintages recommendations.
Below are my choices from the release. I’m thinking the Gabianno and a few  Chardonnays may take precedence this time around.
THE WHITES AND ROSES
13th Street June’s Vineyard, unoaked chardonnay2012 – $21.95 - From vines planted in 1999, another very nice example of the excellent combination of pure Niagara fruit, acidity and limestone soil.
Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay – 2013- $18.95 – From half a world away comes another unoaked sample at a reasonable price.
Don Jacobo Rose 2013 - $14.95 – Blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha. Should be great on the deck with all sorts of tapas.
Delas Saint Esprit Cotes du Rhone Rose 2013 -$14.95 – Delicate, fruity, very tasty accompaniment to a  grilled chicken breast with a pesto mayonnaise on focaccia or maybe a Cucci octopus appetizer.
THE REDS
Castello Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva -2009 - $22.95 – Well priced and from a quality producer and vintage. To acquire a CCR of this quality in future vintages you may have to move up to the price level of the new CCR Gran Selezione.  Keep that in mind.
Renzo Massi Chianti Riserva 2009 - $15.95 – Terrific price for a riserva.
Alain Jaume Grand Garrigue  Vacqueyras 2012 - $24.95 – Among the first of the 2012 Vacqueyras  to be released and the Grand Garrigue from Jaume is always very good.
Cave de Tain Crozes Hermitage 2011 - $21.95
Perrin L’Andeol Rasteau – 2011- $19.95 – Another of the named villages from Perrin.
Chateau St. Roch Chimeres 2011 - $18.95 – From the Languedoc, one of the wines of the month. (That is the LCBO’s wine of the month, not mine.)
San Pedro 1865 Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 - $19.95 – Solid wine and OK priced. This single vineyard Chilean Cab hails from the Maipo valley, one of my favourite wine regions in Chile.  QPR wise it’s a good value, probably the best among the three cabs listed here. You may find it a bit more coarse with a touch of greenness and loam not found in the following pair.
Black Stallion Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 - $29.95- If you missed it, here’s another version of last release’s EDGE. Look for Cassis, cedar and spice.
Two Hands Sexy Beast Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 - $25.95 – Two Hands is a terrific producer. The name of the wine? Not so much. Add a little hint of mint to the Cassis, cedar and spice.
Dei Vino Nobile de Montepulciano 2010- $27.95 -  Short term cellar worthy from a great location. Everyone should visit Montepulciano once in their life – or maybe twice.
CVNE - Vina Real Plata Crianza 2009 - $18.95 – Among the better buys in the release in my opinion. The producer is first rate.
Convento San Francisco 2005 - $21.95- A very good review  but check the date. This wine has lots of age on it so I expect what you find in the bottle (and your glass) will differ from the review somewhat.
Montebuena Rioja $14.95
Tamara Roble Tempranillo 2011 - $16.95
THE BIG BUCKS
Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2011 - $30.00 – Always very good and certainly among the better eastern Canadian wines period. Oaked? Yes but not overdone. If it was $29.95 it would not be in the big bucks zone - 5 cents makes a difference!.
Miramar Unoaked Chardonnay – 2012- $31.95 – You can describe this wine two ways –‘Stylistically  very UnCalifornian’  or ‘This is an eighty year old man in a bottle - no wood’. Hmmm, maybe I should copyright  that name for the I4C.
Souverain Winemaker’s Reserve 2008 - $41.95 – A big buck wine from the Alexander Valley, this one has some age on it already so it should be drinking very nicely.

Domaine Barville Chateauneuf du Pape 2010 - $44.95– A rerelease from a wonderful vintage in the Southern Rhone.

Thursday, June 26, 2014

July 5th Vintages - A couple of good ones but little from the two features

July 5th brings two features -  New Zealand  and a second smaller one that focuses on Spain. NZ is nice if you’re after crisp whites – grassy Sauvignon blancs, crisp Pinot Gris, apple-y chards (surprisingly missing from the release). The reds? Not too much going for them  or at least not to my palate. YPMV.
So on to the second feature.  The last few months have seen Spanish wines provide most of the interest  and dominate the quality of Vintages releases. Is it surprising that this feature would be anticlimactic?  No. ( and Yes that was a rhetorical question).

My choices for the wines of the release include one from Tuscany and two of the bigger buck options.
ITALY
VILLA CAFAGGIO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2009   300 cases of 12  $26.95 – So call me a point chaser! This should be a natural to be served  with anything Italian (eggplant parmesan comes to mind immediately). Wine Enthusiast thought enough of this wine to make it their number  5 wine of 2013. If you are fortunate enough to find some, it’ll need time and air. I do suspect you’ll be arm wrestling for it.

COLTIBUONO CANCELLI ROSSO 2011 – $15.95 - WS liked it enough to fit it into their Top 100 wines -  if only just. This might just be this year’s 2006 Monte Antico. 

RHÔNE
ORTAS L'ESTELLAN GIGONDAS 2011   249 cases of 12  $24.95 –  Considering they are both old world, I would categorize this as the opposite of the Chianti above. Rather than giving it time in a dark place, this is ready for immediate consumption with a little decanting.  The vintage is not up to the structure and quality of 2010 but the wine will be very good, open and inviting.
SPAIN
VIÑA OLABARRI GRAN RESERVA 2005   615 cases of 12  $24.95 – The best of the Spanish choices this time around.
AUSTRALIA
THORN-CLARKE TERRA BAROSSA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012   560 cases of 12   $16.95 Well priced Barossa Cab from the big fruit experts. Historically big and viscous
JIP JIP ROCKS SHIRAZ/CABERNET 2012   511 cases of 12  $16.95 – A well priced, well made option if you’re in the mood for a blend. Try with slightly smokey  BBQ’d ribs.
THE HEDONIST SHIRAZ 2010 Walter Clappis   391 cases of 12  $23.95
WASHINGTON STATE
COLUMBIA CREST GRAND ESTATES MERLOT 2011   900 cases of 12   $16.95 – More chocolate and vanilla notes from the oak, this is from the same category as the current Food and Drink $17 Special.
CALIFORNIA
EDGE WINES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011   447 cases of 12  $29.95 – Typical California flavours of cassis, cedar, vanilla.
RAYMOND R COLLECTION FIELD BLEND LOT NO. 7 2012   447 cases of 12   $19.95
SOUTH AFRICA
CATHEDRAL CELLAR MERLOT 2010 (KWV)  500 cases of 12  $14.95 Inexpensive but still real quality – black fruit and mocha notes – great for a backyard BBQ. Interesting comparison with the Columbia Crest.
VENETO
MASI GRANDARELLA 2010   279 cases of 12  $25.95 This wine has been described by some serious wine folk as everything from  a really poor impression of an Amarone  to an outright wine joke. But I don’t mind it from time to time with a big stew or braised meat. Not really the time of year for that though!
BIG BUCKS
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay - Only 111 cases of 6 - $34.95 – 666 bottles means you’ll have a devil of a time finding this one (I kill myself sometimes!).  It is a bit of a cult wine and is quite renowned for its full charm, brioche aromas and fruity goodness. Watch the legs form on your glass and you’ll know you are in for a real treat. Among my favourite of the new world  chards. For reference points, I like this and I like the rarely seen Luca from Chile. It’s my opinion that if this were from Napa it would be over twice the price. It’ll be rare and you will probably have to arm wrestle for it too.
BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE EBENEZER SHIRAZ 2007   418 cases of 6  $39.95- Past vintages of this wine have been massive, viscous treats – but you do have to in the mood for them. Calling it  ‘big’ shortchanges the wine.  Rack of lamb served rare with a big glass of this wine is difficult to beat. Nice age on this one too.
BERINGER CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011   335 cases of 12  $49.95
 DUCKHORN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011   167 cases of 12   $76.95
THE CHOCOLATE BLOCK 2012 (Boekenhoutskloof) 155 cases of 12   $39.95 – The name says it all.

LA VELONA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2008   199 cases of 12   $43.95

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

June 21 Vintages release - The reign of Spain continues

   June 21 brings another Vintages release containing  only a few wines that might cause guilt or second thoughts if they are missed. The release features New World and Old World comparisons of wines and also has a second feature of wines made from specific ‘less travelled’ grapes.  In spite of these promising possibilities, the release is a bit of a dud. If it wasn’t for Spain (again!) this one would be a nonstarter. Four very good wines in the release and two more in the ISDs! Perhaps a harbinger of World Cup performance? (Editor's comment: Or perhaps not after that debacle against the Netherlands) 
While there are a few wines of interest, are they compelling? 54 to 62 points on the VRSS says very few.
SPAIN
Muriel  Vendimia Selecionnada 2008 Tempranillo - $19.95 and 95 points? 718 cases but watch out - folks will be buying by the box. The number 6 wine from Decanter last year so this one could be this release’s no brainer! By the way, it’s half the price of Decanter’s number 7 wine, also still available at some local LCBO tax centres.  
Vina Herminia Excelsus 2009 – 1198 cases - Another Top 100 wine, this one from the WS Top 100 (#39) last year, is a WOM and ok priced at $21.95. Ageworthy, put it in the cellar and forget it for a year or three.
 Borsao Berola 2009 – $18.95 A well made blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon . The double B causes an alliteration alert. If you try this one your tastebuds might provoke pleasurable,  past perceptions  of  Priorat’s Prior Pons Planets. Rich, full and oh so tasty.
FRANCE
Two opposites (not polar but dollar) from the southern Rhone. Rasteau, a named village is available as is a Cotes du Rhone but from a very highly respected Chateauneuf du Pape producer Clos de CaillouNormally the prices would be reversed but the Rasteau  is $17 and the CdR is $25.95

CHÂTEAU D'ANGLÈS LA CLAPE CLASSIQUE  2010  448 cases  $16.95
Chateau de Gaudou  Grand Lignee – Cahors 2010- Malbec/Merlot blend – The review reads like one for a Chateau Lagrezette from a hot vintage. Worth a flyer? Maybe, if you have a dark cool place for a few years. In general, these French malbecs need some time to come around and soften up.

Argentina – Two inexpensive ones for Burgers and more
La Posta Angel paulucci MAlbec 2011 – $16.95 - A single vineyard production from the Mendoza  region, this one is always good value for the money. Ribs, steaks, burgers – or even by itself.
Agostino Inicio Malbec 2011 $14.95 – Also from the Mendoza region, this appears to be one of the better buys of the release. Neal Martin’s review is effusive in its praise of the nose and palate of the wine.  Burgers? You bet!
Washington St
Chateau Ste. Michelle – Syrah – 2011 –$17.00  An excellent producer and from a state that has lots of areas that have all the right things going for this grape. The price is getting closer to where most Washington St. products should be sold here.
TUSCANY – Nice wine but maybe still on sale
 BARONE RICASOLI ROCCA GUICCIARDA CHIANTI CLASSICO  2010 499 cases $24.95. A tip if you like this wine - Look around for the 1500ml bottles of the same wine and vintage  that are left over from last Christmas.  Save yourself some $$’s. 
AUSTRALIA
 SALTRAM MAMRE BROOK SHIRAZ 2011    498 cases of 6 $26.95  
 MAGPIE ESTATE THE SACK SHIRAZ 2010   499 cases $22.95    
BIG BUCKS
LA TOUR COSTE LA COMBE SAINT-JOSEPH 2010   114 cases $30.95  - Really?  Might be very nice but holy smokes, that’s getting up there!
CLOS DU VAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010 E 223 cases $39.95  
 PLUME CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011  279 cases $31.95  
Paolo Conterno Rive del Bric Barolo 2009-$42.95
CAPANNA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2008 199 cases $48.95
CHÂTEAU LA NERTHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2011  149 cases $49.95
MUGA SELECCION ESPECIAL RESERVA 2009 - $39.95 - An ISD so very limited in stores and quantity, but among the best wines of a terrific producer.


Monday, June 2, 2014

June 7th Vintages - Oz and Dad are upstaged by Spain

The June 7th release features Australia, crisp whites from Italy and some Fathers Day selections. The Australian release is moderately good, if more of the same old, same old. The Father’s Day pickings are so slim it appears someone at the LCBO has some unresolved Daddy issues. We’ll delve no further into that.

 For this release and to my palate the best wine buys in the release hail from Europe. From both a flavour and a quality perspective (to say nothing of QPR)  the better wines and my top picks are two of the offerings from Spain and one from Puglia in Italy. I do issue a word of warning about one of the Spanish choices in my notes below though.  You can call me a pessimist for that.
The VRSS comes in at 62 to 66 points.
RED TABLE WINE
SPAIN
  BORSAO TRES PICOS GARNACHA 2011   700 cases of 12  $19.95  - Spanish Garnacha (Grenache), made to suit a mature if modern palate can be exceptional. This one is just that and is annually among my ‘must buys’. Especially good served alongside a grilled pork tenderloin or perhaps a ‘hot off the home rotisserie’  chicken.  An excellent wine.   If I fail in my quest for some of the Breca, I’ll double up on this wine. Buying wine from the LCBO means a man must have a fall back strategy!
  BRECA OLD VINES GARNACHA 2010   689 cases of 12  $19.95  - A Vintages rerelease of a wine that  Robert Parker  scored 94 points.  The previous release caused normally mature, intelligent  adults to degenerate into chest puffing arm wrestlers on Saturday morning in the LCBO. The LCBO must have loved it though because it blew out of the stores like the title of a certain 2000 Nicolas Cage movie. I expect a replay in this release (not of the movie, just of the title – Gone in Sixty Seconds).  I do have a concern about this vintage being made available again so late in the going.  Is it a second rate release of the wine made to capitalize on the original’s great score? Time will tell. Taste wise, my previous bottles needed a bit of time to settle in. This wine opened with an almost dusty  texture and mouthfeel  when I enjoyed my first bottle of it. That dustiness was replaced by supporting tannins and big gobs of black and red berry fruit after a short exposure to air. Second bottle, served a few months later, didn’t have the initial dustiness, just great fruit and tight tannins. It was a memorable wine, especially for under $20. Served on Mother’s Day, it was a huge hit with my wife so, being a wise man,  I’ll be trying to get more of it for sure!  The third sample that I had was purchased in BC and was good but not great.  Pleasant fruit but lacking definition and character. That one was the latest one that I bought and that’s why I’m concerned  for the lot in this release.
PUGLIA
 LEONE DE CASTRIS RISERVA SALICE SALENTINO 2010   349 cases of 12 $19.95  - Three of three from Gambero Rosso and under $20. I’ll take that any time. Grilled meats,  braised meats, ripe or hard cheeses – excellent!
AUSTRALIA
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE BLACK LABEL CABERNET   348 cases of 12  $27.95  - This wine continues to score  well with all the Toronto area wine critics and this year’s vintage made the WS Top 100 too.  Big Coonawarra profile – cassis, cedar, and eucalyptus makes it a natural for rack of lamb. It’ll age or be ready to go right now.
DOMAINE TOURNON MATHILDA SHIRAZ 2011 (M. Chapoutier) M.   350 cases of 12  $19.95  - If the Terlato and Chapoutier single vineyard offering in the Big Bucks group is an Aussie Cornas, think of this as a St. Joseph. OK mate, since it’s from OZ let’s call it a St. Joey! And go waltzing.
GRANT BURGE THE HOLY TRINITY   479 cases of 6 $29.95  - As close as an Aussie gets to being a Gigondas  ( or maybe even a CNdP).   Still at the magical $29.95 mark this time around, this drifts back and forth from there to $33 sometimes.  Very good wine though and I’m a big fan of this GSM  but there are better choices for less this time around.
ZONTE'S FOOTSTEP LAKE DOCTOR SHIRAZ 2012   808 cases of 12  $16.95 
 HASELGROVE FIRST CUT SHIRAZ 2010   379 cases of 12 $18.95 
THE WINNER'S TANK SHIRAZ 2012   415 $17.95 
Liciencado Reserva Tempranillo 2006 – 275 cases - 29.95 – Very highly regarded by Decanter and with plenty of age already, this one is a new one for me so I’ll try one to begin with. The review’s Bold Black cherry and liquorice flavours sold it for me.
Three Cabernet Sauvignon options, one from OZ, one from California and one from South Africa.
MITOLO JESTER CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012   559 $22.95 
 GEYSER PEAK CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009   576 $19.95 
DELHEIM CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011   223 cases of 12 $18.95 – Best of the reasonable priced Cabernets. Not up to the Wynn’s but it is priced where the Wynn’s used to be.
ROSE and White wines
CARPINETO DOGAJOLO ROSATO 2013   374 cases $15.95 
MARQUES DE CACERES ROSADO 2013   497 cases $13.95 
LANZERAC CHARDONNAY 2011 419 cases of 6 $16.95  - From South Africa, this should be a well priced chard option. Woody though.
Big Bucks
DOMAINE TERLATO & CHAPOUTIER LIEU DIT MALAKOFF SHIRAZ   500 cases of 6 $55.95 – Think of it as an Aussie version of a wine from  Cornas, if Cornas was in the Southern Rhone. OK maybe not. Just think of it as an expensive well crafted Aussie wine made by a Frenchman. 
BURROWING OWL  ATHENE 2010 ISD   55 cases $44.95 – Canadian content. Great winery in the southern Okanagen.
MITOLO G.A.M. SHIRAZ 2010   111 cases of 12 $39.95
BARLOW CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009   111 $65.95 




Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Vintages May 24 Release - The Southern Rhone

It’s the real May Two Four weekend!  An auspicious date for a Vintages release and it’s a Southern Rhone release to boot. If the Southern Rhone feature had lots going for it, this could be a win streak for the LCBO (two releases  in a row, wow).  Sadly it doesn’t have much going for it so the Vintages streak is stopped at one and only if you’re a  Leaf fan  does that constitute a win streak!  
For the release and perhaps to add insult to injury,  the better wine price matchups (the best QPR ones) do come from a Southern Rhone producer but from his Languedoc enterprises.
This release, in spite of the main feature being for one of my favourite regions, has a VRSS score of 58 to 62 points.
MIDI
M. CHAPOUTIER LES VIGNES DE BILA-HAUT 2011 998 cases  $14.95 – The  bargain of the release. Think of it as a very  good Cotes du Rhone Villages. And looking at many of the prices of the CdRVs in this release it is well priced too.
DOMAINE DE BILA-HAUT OCCULTUM LAPIDEM 2011 399 cases $25.95 – Annually a very well regarded wine from the Master of the Rhone Michel Chapoutier, who has become a global powerhouse. This is among his better Midi productions and is held in high esteem by everyone from Beppi  to  Parker to the WineAlign crowd to WS. Allowed to repose for a time in a dark cool place, it’ll really show its best.  
DOMAINE LES YEUSES LES ÉPICES SYRAH 2011 749cases  $14.95 – Mmmm as the name suggests, spicey!
 RHÔNE
All the Rhone wines are OK. None have me racing around trying to find them but this one should be a good buy:
DOMAINE LAFOND ROC-ÉPINE LIRAC 2011   999 cases $18.95 – Among the lesser known ‘named’ Cotes du Rhone Villages, Lirac is still somewhat undiscovered/ understood  in North America. As a result this one has held the price line nicely. You’ll get plenty of fruit and a pleasant wine for pizzas, burgers, saucisses, or charcuterie but the wine should have enough stuffing to drink and age nicely on its own.

And the following one is slightly overpriced for what you’ll get:
GABRIEL MEFFRE SAINTE-CATHERINE GIGONDAS 2011   199 cases $29.95- While the quality of the vintage may not be up to 2010 the price certainly is. I’d normally pick up a couple. This time round and at this price it’s a ‘maybe- maybe not’ proposition.
Argentina
LEO Premium Malbec 2011 $18.95  – Produced by Valentin Bianchi on behalf of and named for Argentina’s  Lionel Messi, this is a good wine to have on hand for burgers during the World Cup! And proceeds from the sale of this wine go to help underprivileged kids.
SOUTH AFRICA
THELEMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009   111 cases $28.95 – Not a huge number of cases but I expect this one to be among the better  choices in the release if you can find it. Big SA cabernet profile – means cassis, cedar and spice with perhaps a hint of tar ( or is that burnt rubber?).
Australia
ROLF BINDER ‘Hales’ – 2010 Shiraz – $18.95 - From the Barossa Valley, big bold, and a real mouthful for the price.
WASHINGTON STATE
CANOE RIDGE EXPEDITION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011   223 cases $19.95 – I was hoping for a Columbia Crest H3 clone but am not sure you’ll get all that from this one. Look for the H3 instead.

Big Bucks

LAZZERETTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2007   238 cases $42.95 – A super year in Tuscany in general and Brunello in particular, this one should provide great food friendliness immediately and long into the future.

LA CRAU DE MA MÈRE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2011   139 cases $46.95
BOSQUET DES PAPES CUVÉE TRADITION CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE   149 cases $50.95

E. GUIGAL CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2007    199 cases  $59.95 – Great vintage with some age on it now so you can promote it in your cellar while waiting for the 2010’s to come around. Just over my price ceiling though. Perhaps I’ll drown my sorrows with some less expensive 2010’s,  if there are any around.

Monday, May 5, 2014

May 10th Vintages - Something for almost everyone.

May 10th and we finally get a release with some quality and variety and thankfully also with wine prices that don’t break the bank. This time around the featured countries are Argentina and Chile backed up by two others, a Rosé feature and a look at Germany. The wine picks are global in scope.
As so often happens with Vintages featured countries, the wines presented are not really top notch but this time around a few are good enough to make it into my selections. I have also made some picks from the rosés. On a deck or patio on a hot summer day I quite like them. The nice thing about new rosés is they are versatile enough to accompany a lunch or a supper of grilled fish, chicken, or pork tenderloin.  I know it may seem early in the year but once many of these are gone, they’re gone until next year so pay attention!
This release scores 68 points on the VRSS and could make it into the 70’s. It’s been a long time since we reached that lofty height and you can thank the rosés this time around.
ARGENTINA
For me only a couple of wines make the grade among the reasonably priced offerings in the first feature of the release, (excluding that big buck Purple Angel). Both are malbecs. Is my predilection for rare, grilled beef showing?
ALTOS LAS HORMIGAS TERROIR MALBEC 2010   223 cases $19.95 – Almost a QPR winner. BBQ’d Burgers, lamb or beef and a glass or two of this. Hard to beat.
ACHÁVAL FERRER MALBEC 2012 400 cases $24.95 – Among my favourite Argentine producers. Santiago Achaval’s discussion of terroir and terrunyo on Wine Library TV is among my favourite wine clips on youtube. A-F’s malbec has gotten more pricey over the last few years but is worth it when served with a roast prime rib or a big hunk of grilled steak.
AUSTRALIA
FOWLES WINE THE EXCEPTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010   419 cases $24.95 – Fowles wines are on a successful run at the LCBO in both the general list and Vintages. Their Stone Dwellers Cab is very popular in the general list and the Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz has developed quite a following at a premium price. I expect the Exception to be a terrific wine. Last year the 2005 Vintage won the Chairman of Judges Award at the prestigious Sydney International wine competition. If nothing else, that proves the wine can age nicely in the medium term.  Look for this one.
SALTRAM MAMRE BROOK CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011   497 cases  of 6 $26.95 – Always tasty.
CHILE
TABALÍ RESERVA ESPECIAL 2009   300 cases $22.95
FRANCE
MIDI
GÉRARD BERTRAND GRAND TERROIR LA CLAPE   399 cases $18.95 – This’ll be an interesting wine. Don’t expect to get quite a Gigondas or Vacqueyras profile as this is missing the raspberry provided by the Grenache, but it’ll be, at times, a smokey, meaty, peppery, licorice-y treat.
RHÔNE
DELAS FRÈRES LES LAUNES CROZES-HERMITAGE 2011  249 cases $22.95 – Think of it as a short lived Hermitage. Give it a year or two and really enjoy it then. If you can’t wait that long, your decanter is calling!
TUSCANY
MARCHESI DE' FRESCOBALDI TENUTA DI CASTIGLIONI 2011   700 cases $21.95 Annually a very good wine. Will age until at least 2018 -2020 or serve it tonight with a grilled bifteck fiorentina.
ROCCA DELLE MACÌE CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2009   650 cases $21.95
RUFFINO MODUS 2009  299 cases $28.95 – Another high quality wine that is very good each year but I think  Suckling’s score of 95 points is way over the top. You’re probably better to save $7 and buy the Rocca Delle Macie 20009 CCR.
SPAIN
VALDEMAR INSPiRACION SELECCION 2010 3998 cases - $17 – One of the few Food and Drink $17 specials that merit the price.  A WS Top 100 choice (#34) that will blow out of the stores by the case load on that reputation alone. Made in a more modern style (for Spain), this one should exhibit plenty of berry fruit and spice with a nice long finish.
VIÑA HERMINIA VENDIMIA SELECCIONADA GRACIANO CRIANZA  298 cases of 6 $22.35
WASHINGTON STATE
HEDGES CELLARS CMS 2011  446 cases $19.95 – Another very pleasant solid wine from the Columbia Valley. Blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot, and Syrah, this one’ll please a lot of palates.
ROSE  WINES
Rumour has it that summer will arrive sometime this year. In preparation, I’ve picked out a demidouzaine of the rosés in this release. They run the gamut from fruity to acidic so look for everything from watermelon, strawberry and raspberry through rhubarb and pink grapefruit notes. Served properly chilled all will work if you’re out on the deck with some charcuterie, breads, cheeses, pickles and olives or some grilled seafood, or tasty sausages hot off the grill.
SOUTH AFRICA
MULDERBOSCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON ROSÉ 2013   503 cases $12.95 – Annually a fave especially if you’re overlooking Weller’s Bay with some nice charcuterie.  Very, very strawberry-rhubarb.
SPAIN
MUGA ROSÉ 2013   1200 cases $12.95 – Consistent, solid and well priced. A very pale coloured rosé that accompanies tapas so well.
ITALY
ZENATO BARDOLINO CHIARETTO ROSÉ 2013   419 cases    $14.95 – I’m expecting this to have some real nice cherry notes instead of berry notes. We shall see.
FRANCE
GÉRARD BERTRAND CÔTE DES ROSES ROSÉ 2013   511 cases of 6  $19.95 – I like Bertrand’s wines across the board so I’m going to pick this one in spite of the somewhat elevated price tag (for a rosé). Spiffy bottle and stopper too.
MAS DES BRESSADES CUVÉE TRADITION ROSÉ 2013   1100 cases $15.95
CHÂTEAU VAL JOANIS TRADITION SYRAH ROSÉ 2013  521 cases  $15.95
 Big Bucks
Two of the picks are just over my $50 ceiling – c’est la vie!
MONTES PURPLE ANGEL 2011 200 cases of 6   $59.95 – A very good wine from a high quality Chilean producer. A smokey, fruity delight but outside my price ceiling.
FONTANAFREDDA SERRALUNGA D'ALBA BAROLO 2008  199 cases $39.95 – Consistently very good and well priced for a Barolo but will need some age or a decant.
TORBRECK THE STEADING 2009   38 cases of 6   $53.95 This one is a Flagship Store Exclusive.  That means it’ll be unavailable to the great, unwashed hordes outside of a few limited store locations in the Nation’s Capital and in the area of the Big Smoke.  Fans of Big Oz, take note.
What might I buy?

Inspiracion
17
4
68
Altos Las H
20
3
60
A-F malbec
25
1
25
Fowles Exception
25
3
75
CMS
20
1
20
Mulderbosch
13
4
52
Muga
13
3
39
Chiaretto
14
2
28


21
367

Monday, April 21, 2014

April 12th and April 26th Vintages releases - One wine for collectors but not much else.

With their April 12th release Vintages does little to change the LCBO’s 2014 record as one of the world’s largest purveyors of often overpriced, often poor quality wines. To say that there is a dearth of vinous options in this release is a fair assessment methinks. The big features are appassimento wines and Easter wines, so if you are a fan of Amarone or Riesling you might be very happy. While there is nothing in the release that I absolutely have to buy, the  Catena’s Cabernet (in spite of the over blown review),  Zonte’s Footsteps Baron van Nemesis Single Site  (in spite of the dumb name) and Jim Barry’s the Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 are my only recommendations.   In the past I have been a proponent of  l’Ecole 41 wines but this time around I have to issue a  buyer beware.  I haven’t seen any glowing reviews of the one in this release and at this price, the reviews should be glowing.  If you can drop by a local LCBO that has a tasting bar do so before spending your hard earned cash on this one. The big buck Amarones from the Feature don’t hold much allure but In the past I have recommended a couple of the more reasonably priced  ripasso wines  - The Zenato Ripasso and the Capitel Dei Nicalo are both always quite solid .  
So what will I be doing this weekend? Probably  ignoring this release and picking up ones and  twos of  recommended wines  from previous releases that are still available .  If you can find the Tassinaia 2006  do so. To my palate it’s close to the Sette Ponti’s Oreno for about two fifths the price. I’m also thinking that the Castello di Ama 2009 Chianti Classico Riserva is a good option if a little expensive.   The 09 was a blend of grapes from their single vineyards blended with those usually used in their Riserva. With the next vintage being officially the first of the new  Grand Selezione category, positioned above the Chianti Classico Riserva, the 09 could actually be a Grand  Selezione  in Riserva’s clothing. Properly marketed I expect this new category of Chianti Classicos to edge into Brunello territory price wise going forward. Still another great option from a few weeks ago is the Montirius Gigondas 2007  if you can find any of them and if you like the Southern Rhone.



Looking ahead, the big features of the April 26th release are B and B’s -  Bordeaux and Bubblies.  In general terms, I’m not a fan of Bordeaux. Tobacco and green flavours,  not enough fruit and of course  way over hyped and too often overpriced.  Surprisingly  the prices aren’t bad  for the Bordeaux  in this release and it is better than recent ones. But it’s still not a great release.
  My first recommendation is to shop the Spanish reds in this release. There are values at every price point from Spain including one that was the decanter number 1 wine of the year and which received  a 100 point score from one of their reviewers. With a trio of tasters the  I Faustino 2001 ended at 97 points  which means the other two scored it around 95 points. Not too shabby if you trust the decanter palates. Considering the price of the 100 point Dominus in a recent release, this one at $32.95 is a buy. Just be prepared to line up early and hope you like that old time Spanish profile.   
If you’re not a fan of Spain and you must shop the new release for a red, go to Washington St. or Argentina. From Washington, try the Three Rivers ‘Rivers Red’ 2011. The wine is slightly overpriced at $19.95 but should be good.  From Argentina, the best choice appears to be the Casarena Ramanegra Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, from 80 year old vines, this one should be a beaut. A third option might be the Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico 2010. All three of these choices are under $20 and should be good.
If you’re looking for whites, try one of the following chardonnays:
Gray Monk unwooded Chardonnay 2012 - $19.95 – A very good Okanagan producer. Remember we’re not going for the vanilla buttery notes here but rather all fruit.
From Burgundy, Roche de Bellene Montagny Premiere Cru 2011 – This should be very tasty but for $26.95 it ought to be. It is the midpriced option of three of the producer’s chardonnays that the LCBO has sold in the last few months.  A less pricey and perhaps less sophisticated sibling was released in February  this year and was very nice – green apple, some lemon-y acidity and quite vibrant. The more expensive (almost  $50)  bigger brother was in the March 29th release.

Among the Big buck options, Les Terrasses from Priorat in Spain is often superb but also often ends up on the Bin End markdown sale list. Because it was #26 in the WS Top 100 last year, it should sell through this year. For those looking for something different the Mitolo Serpico is one  release late coming to the party. This is an Aussie Cab Sauv made in the Amarone style. Where was it last release?


Let’s all hope for continued improvement  and better things to come in May!