I read another article on Robert Parker and the cocacola-ization of wines lately and that got me to thinking. Is it really Parker and the American predilection for the sweet juices and sodas that has changed wine’s flavour profile or can the changes be traced to some other cause? I’ll fly in the face of popular wisdom and throw out another thought. Wine has changed, not so much because of the enjoyment of sweet pops or Parker, but rather due to the marked decrease in the per capita number of smokers (of cigarettes, pipes, cigars) in the Western world. Not only are there fewer smokers per capita but those who are smoking, are smoking less and certainly smoking less in public places. As a result their (and our) olfactory senses and taste buds are more acutely aware of scents and flavours both pleasant and unpleasant.
Last week I watched a PBS documentary on the Kennedy assassination in the early Sixties which was recently made using old films from the day. I was shocked at the overwhelming number of smokers both on the street and in offices. Even the announcers on the TV news were seen smoking on screen! The fumes and smell of old tobacco must have been everywhere – clothes, skin, furniture. For those who dated a smoker, think back to kissing that girlfriend who smoked (or boyfriend – reader gets to choose – but we don’t want to hear about your Katy Perry action here!). Licking an ashtray or sticking your nose in a freshly emptied pack of ciggies comes to mind. Now consider the impact of those scents to the wines of the day. The tobacco scent and taste in the environment would have been cancelled out by (or cancelled out) the equally tobacco-y smelling and tasting wines of the day leaving a minor hit of fruit as the discernable flavour. The fruit component is all that people would have tasted simply because they were numb to the other flavours.
Now plot a chart with the beginning of the demise of smoking (OK not the demise but at least the reduction) with the beginning of Parker and the supposed cocacola-ization and the two curves probably cross nicely in the late 60’s early 70’s. That is when wine really began to change. Yes this has culminated with the high alcohol fruit bombs of the last decade or so but only because we had to get to the point of ‘too much’ to really know that it was too much.
That said, there is a balance to be found between the fruit and vegetal flavours, but I’ll lean to fruit everytime. They are grapes after all!! I still find Bordeaux wines to have very strong tobacco nuances and do not enjoy them as a generalization. No big surprise if you read me often! And those nuances may also account for some of the popularity of Bordeaux wines in the orient. In general, smoking continues to be less frowned upon there.
I’m not sure if my theory is an original thought, nor am I sure it is scientifically proven but I have not read it elsewhere.
That’s just my 2 cents and since it’s my blog, I get to spend it!
Now on to the release. It’s a pretty good one with some good choices in the 10 to 20, 20 to 30 and lots in the over thirty dollar price points. You can tell the holiday and gift giving season is almost upon us.
My choices, but remember the new returns policy and reduce the number of bottles purchased accordingly!!!!!!
BABICH BLACK LABEL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009
The following should all be decanted or at least opened well in advance of enjoying:
BURGE HOLY TRINITY 2005 - $29.95
RUFFINO SANTEDAME CHIANTI CLASSICO 2007 - $19.95
CONDADO DE HAZA CRIANZA 2007 - $24.95
DOMAINE ZUMBAUM TOMASI CLOS MAGINIAI PIC SAINT-LOUP 2007 - $18.95
Under $20
ILLUMINATI RIPAROSSO MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 2008 DOC The 2008 Montepulciano d’Abbruzzo Riparosso is a plump, juicy offering endowed with generous dark fruit and an inviting personality – last year’s was very similar and a good buy. Score: 89 (Antonio Galloni) $12.95
PUYDEVAL 2008 This tasting note defines why people hate wine snobs. It’s a cork dork’s delight! Lovers of Cabernet Franc – not to mention value – do not miss this 2008 Puydeval, blended with 28% Syrah and 10% Merlot grown near Carcasonne … Machine oil, mulberry, and incense form an intense and striking aromatic display that leads to a rich, almost fat, 14% alcohol, yet positively bright palate, where resin-, cinnamon-, walnut oil, and mint-tinged dark chocolate and mulberries hang on for a surprisingly stubborn finish marked by piquant nuttiness and well-integrated bitterness. This is archetypal Cabernet Franc in character, implausibly rich, and ludicrously under-priced. Plan to enjoy it for at least the next three years … Score: 90 (David Schildknecht, Aug. 2009) $14.95
TERRES D ’AVIGNON RÉSERVE DES ARMOIRIES ELEVÉ EN FÛT DE CHÊNE 2007 -$15 – a terrific vintage and a great price especially if you’re having a Christmas get together.
PILLAR BOX RED 2007 - think little brother to Lehmann’s Clancy’s blend for $15.00 Past vintages have been in the 85 to 88 range from BP.
BABICH BLACK LABEL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009 Grass and gooseberries - a normal NZ SB - the note says melons and capsicums, deliciously rich, vibrant and zingy. $17.95
ALAIN JAUME LES VALATS RASTEAU 2007 AC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Expect more up front tannins than the usual ’07 CdR-V fruit. A masculine and ageable Grenache-centric Rasteau. Showing aromas and flavours of chocolate, tobacco, black fruits, and earth. Parker, 91 points $18.95
DOMAINE ZUMBAUM TOMASI CLOS MAGINIAI PIC SAINT-LOUP 2007 AC Languedoc Pure aromas of raspberry and black cherry. On the palate it is finely honed with excellent aroma replays, plus whispers of peat and spice. Wine Spectator, 92 points $18.95
HEDGES CELLARS CMS 2008: 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot, 6% Syrah. Very fine, almost nonexistent tannins in past vintages – easier drinking than the Chilean cab below. I’d take either one of these before the Folie a Deux. $17.95
LUIS FELIPE EDWARDS GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 – Well priced and good quality. If you like mint with your lamb, try this wine. It may not have the eucalyptus hit of a Coonawara Cab but there’ll be a subtle undertone. $16.95
CAVE DE TAIN CROZES HERMITAGE 2007 AC Gold Medal winner at the 2009 Concours des Grands Vins de France. Shows a nice currant and fig fruit profile, with a smoky edge as well. Hints of tobacco and macerated black olive check in on the openknit finish. Drink now. $17.95
BODEGA NQN COLECCIÓN NQN MALBEC 2006 Patagonia and CICCHITTI EMKEM MALBEC 2006 Mendoza – Two good Malbecs should offer distinct samples of the differences of Argentinian terroir and climate. You can’t go wrong with either one with a slab of rare prime rib to complete the picture nicely – both 90 pointers at $19.95
TERRE DI PUGLIA PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA 2007 DOC This is a full-bodied red with a lush centre and good length. A robust companion to a seafood jambalaya, or fusilli with tomato-and-basil sauce (or anything grilled says me).14.95
CELLER DE CAPÇANES MAS DONIS BARRICA OLD VINES 2008 DO Montsant In previous vintages this wine has been very strongly recommended but not by me. A blend of Garnacha and Syrah, so I should like it but have never been a convert. $16.95
HERENCIA REMONDO LA MONTESA 2007 DOCa Rioja Made with a high proportion of Garnacha, this wine is filled with dark fruits, cloves, fresh herbs and smoky oak. It is well made and perfectly balanced. The snappy acids and ripe tannins support the fruit aromas and flavours with precision. $18.95
Between $20 and $30
MARCHESI DE’ FRESCOBALDI TENUTA DI CASTIGLIONI 2008 IGT Toscana A blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and sangiovese. Perennially a 89- 91 pointer, this year is close but won’t match last year’s 93 points. Always very good though! $21.95
QUINTA DE VENTOZELO RESERVA DOURO TINTO 2007 DOC Still young, this is a complex wine. It has layers of dusty tannins, spiced fruits, ripe blackberries and a dark structure. Black chocolate and licorice feed extra richness into the wine. Very smooth aftertaste. Score: 92 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, Aug. 1, 2010) $22.95
DUCKHORN DECOY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008 Napa - 92% Cab Sauv, 6% Merlot and 2% Cab Franc. The Connoiseurs Guide to California Wines gave this an 85 but one of my favourite Vintages consultants said of this wine: “This Decoy is the real McCoy!” Gee, it’s out there on the ‘net for $15.99 US. RETAIL. At $29.95 I’ll try one and you can bet I’ll bring it back if it’s not worth it – within 30 days – with 1 receipt, 2 pcs of ID, 3 character references and a partridge in a pear tree.
CONDADO DE HAZA CRIANZA 2007 DO Ribera del Duero 100% Tempranillo features aromas of blackberry, espresso, cedar and mineral. The wine is a fine combination of ample fruit, good depth and firm tannic structure. The 2005 was a WS top 100 wine. $24.95
FOLIE À DEUX CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 $24.95 – The Folie here is paying $24.95 for this wine. Should be no more than $17.95
RUFFINO SANTEDAME CHIANTI CLASSICO 2007 DOCG Great Vintage, Good complex earthy and black fruit driven nose. Very slick mouthful with a chunky blackcurrant finish. Modern and well executed chocolatey wine. Score: Silver Medal (Decanter World Wine Awards, 2009) $19.95
GLAYMOND ASIF CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 Barossa Valley, Expect typical Barossa colour -a teeth staining, almost black, wine – massive black fruit and licorice in both aroma and flavour. Decant this bad boy for at least an hour, perhaps more if you can wait. $29.95
GRANT BURGE ‘THE HOLY TRINITY’ GRENACHE/SHIRAZ/MOURVÈDRE 2005 Barossa, A touch more tannic than Rosemount’s GSM this blend of 40% grenache, 35% shiraz and 25% mourvedre is from 50 to 120 year old vines. Leans toward CNdP stylistically. Deep in colour and fruit with a smoky bouquet of dried red berries, herbs and sassafras ( root beer or cola?), good mid palate, finishes long, with lingering notes of smoke and sweet red fruit. This wine is ready to drink but I would decant it. Score: 90 – BP liked it a bit better than that. $29.95.
GEOGRAFICO PULLERAIA 2006 IGT Toscana: Herbs, berries and green olives on the nose. Full-bodied, with velvety and caressing tannins. Coffee, berry and light vanilla bean on the palate. Beautiful and enticing young wine. Merlot. Best after 2011. Score: 93 (James Suckling) $29.95
MARCHESE ANTINORI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2006 DOCG A quality producer, the price of this wine reflects the canuck buck vs the euro. This dry and fresh, youthful wine will still benefit from cellar time (3-5 years), but if you decant it (2 hours) you can enjoy it tonight with game meats, bison steaks or grilled lamb. $29.95
Christmas is coming – so is the preponderance of Big Buck selections – some even worth it!
NORMAN HARDIE UNFILTERED CHARDONNAY 2008 17.5 from Jancis Robinson – a great score from her. $35.00
OSOYOOS LAROSE LE GRAND VIN 2006 – Is this a $45 wine? Not in 2006 but weather permitting the vineyards will mature to allow it to become one. As it is now, it is a very good expression of Bordeaux meets the Okanagan. And it is nice to match against a Niagara equivalent from ’07.
Pecchenino San Giuseppe BAROLO 2005 DOCG Aromas of dried mushroom and berries follow through to a full body, with chewy tannins and lots of fruit underneath. Structured and very rich.. Score: 93 (James Suckling,)$44.95
PODERI COLLA BUSSIA DARDI LE ROSE BAROLO 2005 DOCG Dark, mentholated spices, plums, prunes and minerals are among some of the nuances that waft out of the glass as this sublime Barolo reveals the breadth of its pedigree. … the wine possesses gorgeous overall balance and wonderful harmony, ... Regardless, this is a great effort from Poderi Colla.. Score: 93 (Antonio Galloni,) $47.95
CASANOVA DI NERI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 DOCG Very good but big bucks, to be sure.
Score: 92 (Antonio Galloni,) $57.95
LA VITE LUCENTE 2008 IGT Toscana (Luce Della Vite) The second wine to Frescobaldi’s iconic
Luce, is a blend of Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, matured for 12 months in French barriques. This wine offers intense strawberry, blueberry, and currant fruit accented by mocha and spice. Built to last, it will show best after 2011; if you can’t wait, decant it for one hour or more and enjoy with rare red meat dishes . $39.95
MOCALI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2004 DOCG Offers currant, berries and flowers on the nose. Full-bodied, with lots of burnt fruit and raisin flavors. Rustic.Best after 2010. 91 (James Suckling, $46.95
ORNELLAIA LE SERRE NUOVE DELL’ORNELLAIA 2008 DOC Bolgheri Le Serre Nuove, a blend of Merlot, Cabs Sauv and Franc, and Petit Verdot, is a bright and fruity wine with red and black berries tinged by subtle oak nuances of chocolate and clove. Antonio Galloni gave the four previous vintages a score of 90 or above. Expect the yet-to-be-reviewed 2008 vintage to get similar hosannas. $59.95
RUFFINO DUCALE ORO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2005 DOCG TASTING NOTE: There’s a very plush and velvety quality to this wine that is enhanced by aromas of red berry, pipe tobacco, natural rubber and exotic spice. The wine has a ripe, fruitforward personality and a smooth, velvety finish that is broad, powerful and long lasting. Large percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon back the Sangiovese. Score: 91 (Monica Larner,) $43.95
BODEGAS ALEJANDRO FERNANDEZ TINTO PESQUERA RESERVA 2006 DO Ribera del Duero TASTING NOTE: The 2006 Pesquera Reserva is purple-colored with an expressive perfume of earth, leather, spice box, lavender, and blackberry. Layered on the palate, it has ample savory fruit, good richness, and 3-4 years of cellaring potential. From 2014 to 2026. Score: 92 (Jay Miller, June 2010) $41.95
THE THREE CALI CABS SHOULD ALL BE GOOD BUT THEY’RE OUT OF MY LEAGUE $$ wise:
Stags Leap Cabernet 2006 - $49.95,
Joseph Phelps Cabernet 2007 – $74.95
Ggrich Cabernet 2006 - $74.95
No ISD’s to recommend this time around.
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