Friday, August 10, 2012

August 18 - Southern Rhone, PNW, and Sake


The August 18th release is almost upon us which means we’re in the home stretch of another summer. Good Grief, where did it go? Weather wise, it has been spectacularly warm. Vintages release wise? Not so hot.  This release seems to be a continuation of that trend. Originally, when I read the focal points of this release were to be the Rhone and Pacific Northwest I thought “Oh boy, I’m going to love this one.”, but after giving the release notes a quick perusal, mmmmm, not so much.  These two wine producing areas should yield a bonanza of wine selections. Somehow though the LCBO has managed to put as few wines as possible per page and make it into a boring rehash. The VRSS comes in at 62 for what had the possibility to be no less than an 81 to 84 VRSS point release!
The 2010 Southern Rhone should offer some very good alternatives. But please, 10 pages to sell only 13 different wines? That’s a remarkably wasteful and inefficient use of both printed material and bits and bytes.  The Pacific Northwest focus , which completely underwhelms with a staggeringly low  6 wines on 8 pages is even worse. Seeing how many cases of each wine they’re bringing in (where are you when I need you Michael Vaughan of Vintage Assessments?) may change my opinion but the $ performance per page for this release appears to be absolutely mind numbing to anyone familiar with a real retail business!
The third focus this week is Sake. I like sake once in a while with my sushi but I actually prefer a beer or two.  I never consider it other times. Result? The Sake section is a complete nonstarter for me. YMMV.
THE RHONE
The Rhone opens with two entry level Cotes du Rhones and a CdR Villages. It’s an inauspicious beginning  when the same winery is shown to have two different owners (Farjon Besnardeau  and  Barjon Besnardeau. Who proof reads these things? It’s Farjon by the way).  Either way, Domaine les Grand Bois has two wines here. One’s a Cotes du Rhone, the other a CdR V. Both should be good if a bit overpriced. Cambie’s Halos de Jupiter is also good but I expect we’ll get as good for less as more samples of the  2010 vintage show up in later Vintages releases.
Among the named villages (and ignoring for the moment Chateauneuf du Pape), Vacqueyras and Gigondas are my favourites but Cairanne and Vinsobres are always good as well.  It seems like yesterday that  Vintages sold 5000 cases of  Perrin’s  Vinsobres Les Cornuds at a cool $15. And this year’s comes in at $17.95. Is that a 20% increase year over year? Yes it is! Nice negotiating there LCBO. A new label should not cost me $2.95 more!  I’ll  negotiate by  taking a pass on the Vinsobres for now and recommend you readers do the same. Too bad – it’s a good wine but ….
PICK # 1- GIGONDAS PERRIN LA GILLE 2010 - $29.95 – Not cheap but worth it if you have somewhere to keep the wine for a few years. On the nose, expect olive notes, dark berry fruits, hints of meat and as it opens taste it pass through raspberry and blackberry fruitiness. Nice wine but does need some time. I had a 2006 last week that was superb. Tannins? Soft and completely integrated. The Clos de Cazeaux might be almost as good but for less.
DOMAINE GRANDY VACQUEYRAS 2010 – At $18.95 this is a well priced WoM and there should be lots around. A touch fruitier and more approachable now than the Gigondas but also substantially less expensive.
See the Big Bucks notes below for the Chateauneuf du Pape picks available in this release
PACIFIC  NORTHWEST
The lone possible pick among  the Pacific northwest wines is the 2009 COLUMBIA CREST  H3 Cabernet. This  is a rerelease (A special focus and they rerelease wines and vintage) of a very good, if slightly overpriced  wine. It’s not quite up to the merlot from the same vineyard in the last few years but it’s still a very good cab sauv option especially around a BBQ. It’s also my only reco from this focus, although the also rereleased Ste. Michelle Chard is always good.
THE REST OF THE RELEASE
 WAKEFIELD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009 $17.95 – From the cooler  (for Oz) Clare valley, Wakefield’s products always offer terrific value and quality. Better price than the H3 and equal in every way.
PICK #2  GEYSER PEAK BLOCK COLLECTION WALKING TREE VINEYARD 2007 $28.95 – Always tasty and rich. A real mouth full of cassis hits, some cedar notes. Big.  I’m a sucker for the Geyser Peak Block Collection wines and am not ashamed to admit it. But it’s expensive compared to the H3 or the Wakefield so I could waffle as it gets closer to time to open the wallet!
SUMMERS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008 – At $29.95 there is quality in the bottle and it’s a toss up between this and the Geyser Peak but I know the Geyser Peak. DO I spring for a couple of both or just load up on the H3/ Wakefield combo?
EVANS AND TATE METRICUP ROAD SHIRAZ 2009 $19.95 A WoM from Western Australia wine, so expect more subtlety  than the ZONTE’S FOOTSTEPS  and perhaps a bit more sophistication. Grilled lamb anyone?
ZONTE’S FOOTSTEPS LAKE DOCTOR SHIRAZ $16.95. – This one hails from the Langhorne Creek region so you can taste the regional differences between there and the Barossa if you still have some of the recently released Baron von Nemesis. Not a bad price for another  BIG, bold Aussie.
PICK #3 RENZO MASI CHIANTI RISERVA 2008 Another $15.95 bargain – Reviewed as a  smart buy  by Bruce Sanderson in Wine Spectator, this should provide instant pleasure at such a good price!
ALTESINO ROSSO DI ALTESINO 2009 $18.95 – From an excellent producer of Brunellos, this wine gets additional oomph from touches of cab and merlot. Very tasty and easy to drink.
DI MAJO NORANTE CONTADO RESERVA AGLIANICO DEL MOLISE 2009 - $15.95 and 91 points from Galloni? A buy if you like tarry, licorice-y fruity wines. So close to being a pick!
CELLAR BESLLUM 2008 – A nice Spanish option at $15.95. This one earned  93 points from Jay Miller, the 90 point man himself. Expect fruit, smoke, tar and even leather on this youngish wine. Could be a real bargain.
TORBRECK’S WOODCUTTER BAROSSA SHIRAZ 2010 – Don’t do it! At $30.95, this wine has steadily increased in price over the last few years and is no longer worth the $$’s. It should be mid twenties at most and $19.95 on promotion. It’s among Torbreck’s entry level wines.  If you do spring for it, decant carefully first as it’s unfined and unfiltered. If you don’t decant, pour with a gentle hand and you’ll want to beware of the chewy gunk in the final glasses. Wine gunk can be like fresh spinach when strained  through your teeth – not too nice to look at!
BIG BUCKS
VERBENA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2007 – Terrific score from Monica Larner, even if it’s three points less at 91 this is pretty well priced for a Brunello at $37.95
Among the Chateauneuf du Papes available in this release I’d spring for the SAINT SIFFREIN first, then perhaps the BOSQUET DES PAPES  CUVEE TRADITION.  Even very young, the 2009 Saint Siffrein was excellent.
SBRAGIA MONTE ROSSO VINEYARD 2006 – At $54.95, this one isn’t cheap but comes with a pedigree and will age for some time.



No comments: