The August 18th release is almost upon us which
means we’re in the home stretch of another summer. Good Grief, where did it go?
Weather wise, it has been spectacularly warm. Vintages release wise? Not so hot.
This release seems to be a continuation
of that trend. Originally, when I read the focal points of this release were to be
the Rhone and Pacific Northwest I thought “Oh boy, I’m going to love this one.”,
but after giving the release notes a quick perusal, mmmmm, not so much. These two wine producing areas should yield a
bonanza of wine selections. Somehow though the LCBO has managed to put as few
wines as possible per page and make it into a boring rehash. The VRSS comes in
at 62 for what had the possibility to be no less than an 81 to 84 VRSS point
release!
The 2010 Southern Rhone should offer some very good
alternatives. But please, 10 pages to sell only 13 different wines? That’s a
remarkably wasteful and inefficient use of both printed material and bits and
bytes. The Pacific Northwest focus ,
which completely underwhelms with a staggeringly low 6 wines on 8 pages is even worse. Seeing how
many cases of each wine they’re bringing in (where are you when I need you Michael
Vaughan of Vintage Assessments?) may change my opinion but the $ performance
per page for this release appears to be absolutely mind numbing to anyone
familiar with a real retail business!
The third focus this week is Sake. I like sake once in a
while with my sushi but I actually prefer a beer or two. I never consider it other times. Result? The Sake
section is a complete nonstarter for me. YMMV.
THE RHONE
The Rhone opens with two entry level Cotes du Rhones and a CdR
Villages. It’s an inauspicious beginning when the same winery is shown to have two
different owners (Farjon Besnardeau and Barjon Besnardeau. Who proof reads these
things? It’s Farjon by the way). Either
way, Domaine les Grand Bois has two wines here. One’s a Cotes du Rhone, the
other a CdR V. Both should be good if a bit overpriced. Cambie’s Halos de
Jupiter is also good but I expect we’ll get as good for less as more samples of
the 2010 vintage show up in later
Vintages releases.
Among the named villages (and ignoring for the moment
Chateauneuf du Pape), Vacqueyras and Gigondas are my favourites but Cairanne
and Vinsobres are always good as well. It seems like yesterday that Vintages sold 5000 cases of Perrin’s Vinsobres Les Cornuds at a cool $15. And this
year’s comes in at $17.95. Is that a 20% increase year over year? Yes it is!
Nice negotiating there LCBO. A new label should not cost me $2.95 more! I’ll negotiate
by taking a pass on the Vinsobres for
now and recommend you readers do the same. Too bad – it’s a good wine but ….
PICK # 1- GIGONDAS PERRIN LA GILLE 2010 - $29.95 – Not cheap
but worth it if you have somewhere to keep the wine for a few years. On the
nose, expect olive notes, dark berry fruits, hints of meat and as it opens
taste it pass through raspberry and blackberry fruitiness. Nice wine but does need
some time. I had a 2006 last week that was superb. Tannins? Soft and completely
integrated. The Clos de Cazeaux might be almost as good but for less.
DOMAINE GRANDY VACQUEYRAS 2010 – At $18.95 this is a well
priced WoM and there should be lots around. A touch fruitier and more
approachable now than the Gigondas but also substantially less expensive.
See the Big Bucks notes below for the Chateauneuf du Pape
picks available in this release
PACIFIC NORTHWEST
The lone possible pick among the Pacific northwest wines is the 2009 COLUMBIA
CREST H3 Cabernet. This is a rerelease (A special focus and they
rerelease wines and vintage) of a very good, if slightly overpriced wine. It’s not quite up to the merlot from the
same vineyard in the last few years but it’s still a very good cab sauv option especially
around a BBQ. It’s also my only reco from this focus, although the also
rereleased Ste. Michelle Chard is always good.
THE REST OF THE RELEASE
WAKEFIELD CABERNET
SAUVIGNON 2009 $17.95 – From the cooler
(for Oz) Clare valley, Wakefield’s products always offer terrific value
and quality. Better price than the H3 and equal in every way.
PICK #2 GEYSER PEAK
BLOCK COLLECTION WALKING TREE VINEYARD 2007 $28.95 – Always tasty and rich. A
real mouth full of cassis hits, some cedar notes. Big. I’m a sucker for the Geyser Peak Block Collection
wines and am not ashamed to admit it. But it’s expensive compared to the H3 or
the Wakefield so I could waffle as it gets closer to time to open the wallet!
SUMMERS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008 – At $29.95 there is quality
in the bottle and it’s a toss up between this and the Geyser Peak but I know
the Geyser Peak. DO I spring for a couple of both or just load up on the H3/
Wakefield combo?
EVANS AND TATE METRICUP ROAD SHIRAZ 2009 $19.95 A WoM from Western
Australia wine, so expect more subtlety
than the ZONTE’S FOOTSTEPS and
perhaps a bit more sophistication. Grilled lamb anyone?
ZONTE’S FOOTSTEPS LAKE DOCTOR SHIRAZ $16.95. – This one
hails from the Langhorne Creek region so you can taste the regional differences
between there and the Barossa if you still have some of the recently released
Baron von Nemesis. Not a bad price for another BIG, bold Aussie.
PICK #3 RENZO MASI CHIANTI RISERVA 2008 Another $15.95
bargain – Reviewed as a smart buy by Bruce Sanderson in Wine Spectator, this
should provide instant pleasure at such a good price!
ALTESINO ROSSO DI ALTESINO 2009 $18.95 – From an excellent
producer of Brunellos, this wine gets additional oomph from touches of cab and
merlot. Very tasty and easy to drink.
DI MAJO NORANTE CONTADO RESERVA AGLIANICO DEL MOLISE 2009 -
$15.95 and 91 points from Galloni? A buy if you like tarry, licorice-y fruity
wines. So close to being a pick!
CELLAR BESLLUM 2008 – A nice Spanish option at $15.95. This
one earned 93 points from Jay Miller,
the 90 point man himself. Expect fruit, smoke, tar and even leather on this
youngish wine. Could be a real bargain.
TORBRECK’S WOODCUTTER BAROSSA SHIRAZ 2010 – Don’t do it! At
$30.95, this wine has steadily increased in price over the last few years and is
no longer worth the $$’s. It should be mid twenties at most and $19.95 on
promotion. It’s among Torbreck’s entry level wines. If you do spring for it, decant carefully
first as it’s unfined and unfiltered. If you don’t decant, pour with a gentle
hand and you’ll want to beware of the chewy gunk in the final glasses. Wine
gunk can be like fresh spinach when strained through your teeth – not too nice to look at!
BIG BUCKS
VERBENA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2007 – Terrific score from
Monica Larner, even if it’s three points less at 91 this is pretty well priced for
a Brunello at $37.95
Among the Chateauneuf du Papes available in this release I’d
spring for the SAINT SIFFREIN first, then perhaps the BOSQUET DES PAPES CUVEE TRADITION. Even very young, the 2009 Saint Siffrein was
excellent.
SBRAGIA MONTE ROSSO VINEYARD 2006 – At $54.95, this one
isn’t cheap but comes with a pedigree and will age for some time.
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