Wednesday, April 24, 2013

April 27th Vintages - The drying rack, organics, and one 50 Shades of Grapes Review


April 27th delivers a pair of features that are difficult to get enthused about. The first feature is   Appassimento styled wines. The second is the politically and environmentally correct Organic wines. Appassimento wines are an acquired taste but once acquired some nice wines can be had just not from this week. Many of my choices this week are from Italy but only one, and it was a stretch,  is from the ‘Drying art’. The second feature is more of a life choice but finding quality wines worthy of the organic descriptor can be pretty difficult. I don’t hold much hope for this one.
The release earns a VRSS of 62 points. It might be a bit higher if two of the best wines in the release weren’t ISDs.
The Reds
Marchesi de Frescobaldi Tenuta di Castiglioni 2010 $20.95 – Always a superior wine at a good price, this Vintage may not be up to my favourite for this wine (2007)  but will still be very good.  Lay down or decant and serve with spring rack of lamb on the bar-B.
Langa Tradicion Centenaria 2008 Garnacha – $14.95- Did you enjoy Tres Picos a while back? If so, jump in with both feet here, this one is 5 bucks less and could be very good.
Suzana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 - $19.95 – From Argentina’s best known female wine maker. Her attention to quality in the vineyard and in the winery is displayed in this wine.
Torrevento Vigna Pedale Reserva 2008 - $20.95 – 3 of 3 from Gambero Rosso the $21 Italian made from the Uva de troia grape. It’s always nice to have a different option or at least a wine that’s off the beaten grape path. This is from Puglia in the south eastern extremity of the heel of the boot that is Italy.
San Jacopo Vichiomaggio Chianti Classico 2009 - $19.95 – Dry, saliva inducing. Where’s that roast pork, eggplant parmesan, veal scallopini, or other rich dish of your choice?
The Rose, Fizzy or White Picks
Carpineto Dogajolo Rosado 2012 $13.95 – Ahhh, those first warm springtime days. Means it’s time for a nice light strawberry hinted rose with some planked salmon or shrimp. Perhaps a duck saucisse snack?
 Huff Pinot Gris 2011- $19.95 This is a tad expensive  for a  sample of ‘The county’s’ dry, bracing Pinot Gris. The slightest hint of pink on this one brings to mind the terrific Kettle Valley PG from BC. Huff is not quite there yet but give them time. Mmmm, has pickerel season opened yet?
Duca di Quadri Catemario  Collezione Privat 2010 $14.95 - Pinot Grigio from Friuli. Has calamari season opened yet? (Yes I know it’s always open.)
Wakefield Clare Valley Chardonnay 2010-$14.95 – Simple, coolish climate chard with ample oak.
Miguel Torres Santa Digna Estelado $18.95 – A sparkler made with 100% Pais grapes. To quote the producer’s website “…..Chile’s oldest grape varietal has been recovered from the past…, a varietal that arrived in the 16th century …cultivated by a large number of small growers".
The Big Bucks
Domaine St. Siffrein Chateauneuf du Pape 2010- $41.95 – A nice example of the 2010 vintage. Sweet, savoury, spicy, juicy.  I could go on. The finish of this wine surely does….But hey, it was 2 bucks cheaper last fall! Vintage? Same. Producer? Same.  Price? 5% increase! WTF?  The Vintages Panel should have given this wine a 50 Shades of Grey review as foreplay to get Ontario shoppers in the mood for the screwing they’re about to get.  Something along the lines of “A turgid wine with long, hard tannins that assault your forgiving tongue while the silky, burgundy coloured elixir pleasures it with fruit and spice. Your tastebuds just begin to acclimatize to the delightful assault flowing across your pink, vibrant, fleshy, mouth-muscle when the scent of soft calfskin fills your nose. You realize too late it’s the unstoppable fingers of the uncaring government bureaucrat roughly peeling open the supple, soft leather of your wallet, plundering  it of your hard earned wad of dough”.  Now that’s an appropriate Vintages Panel review for this wine. The same wine, the same vintage and a 2 buck increase in a few months indeed.
Fontannafreda Barolo Serralunga d’Alba 2007 –$37.95  I really enjoyed the 500ml bottles of this wine in previous releases. Perfect for when I’m bach-ing it! It’s a shame that they’ve reverted to the 750 ml size for this release.
Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 2007 – Age worthy and well scored, if you’re looking for a splurge wine this one gets a terrific review from Antonio Galloni.
Monte del Fra Lena di Mezzo  Amarone della Valpolicella 2007 –$48.95 -  For me, the only choice from either feature.
And a pair of ISDs (In Store Discoveries) that are definitely  worthwhile hunting down
Thorn-Clarke William Randell Shiraz2010 – $45.00 – A big young brut with some subtleties. Think of it as an all pro linebacker who can play concert piano.
Delas Domaine des Grands Chemins Crozes Hermitage 2010 - $31.95. Almost 50 weeks to the day since its last vintage was available, this wine has taken a 10% increase in price. That’s the bad news. The good news is that it’s probably worth it if you can find it! Want a review? Read the St. Siffrein above.  

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