April 27th delivers a pair of features that are difficult
to get enthused about. The first feature is Appassimento styled wines. The second is the
politically and environmentally correct Organic wines. Appassimento wines are an
acquired taste but once acquired some nice wines can be had just not from this
week. Many of my choices this week are from Italy but only one, and it was a
stretch, is from the ‘Drying art’. The
second feature is more of a life choice but finding quality wines worthy of the
organic descriptor can be pretty difficult. I don’t hold much hope for this
one.
The release earns a VRSS of 62 points. It might be a bit
higher if two of the best wines in the release weren’t ISDs.
The Reds
Marchesi de
Frescobaldi Tenuta di Castiglioni 2010 $20.95 – Always a superior wine at a
good price, this Vintage may not be up to my favourite for this wine (2007) but will still be very good. Lay
down or decant and serve with spring rack of lamb on the bar-B.
Langa Tradicion Centenaria
2008 Garnacha – $14.95- Did you enjoy Tres Picos a while back? If so, jump
in with both feet here, this one is 5 bucks less and could be very good.
Suzana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 - $19.95 – From Argentina’s best known female wine
maker. Her attention to quality in the vineyard and in the winery is displayed
in this wine.
Torrevento Vigna
Pedale Reserva 2008 - $20.95 – 3 of 3 from Gambero Rosso the $21 Italian
made from the Uva de troia grape. It’s always nice to have a different option or
at least a wine that’s off the beaten grape path. This is from Puglia in the
south eastern extremity of the heel of the boot that is Italy.
San Jacopo
Vichiomaggio Chianti Classico 2009 - $19.95 – Dry, saliva inducing. Where’s
that roast pork, eggplant parmesan, veal scallopini, or other rich dish of your
choice?
The Rose, Fizzy or
White Picks
Carpineto Dogajolo
Rosado 2012 $13.95 – Ahhh, those first warm springtime days. Means it’s
time for a nice light strawberry hinted rose with some planked salmon or
shrimp. Perhaps a duck saucisse snack?
Huff Pinot Gris 2011- $19.95 This is a tad
expensive for a sample of ‘The county’s’ dry, bracing Pinot
Gris. The slightest hint of pink on this one brings to mind the terrific Kettle
Valley PG from BC. Huff is not quite there yet but give them time. Mmmm, has pickerel
season opened yet?
Duca di Quadri
Catemario Collezione Privat 2010
$14.95 - Pinot Grigio from Friuli. Has calamari season opened yet? (Yes I know
it’s always open.)
Wakefield Clare
Valley Chardonnay 2010-$14.95 – Simple, coolish climate chard with ample
oak.
Miguel Torres Santa
Digna Estelado $18.95 – A sparkler made with 100% Pais grapes. To quote the
producer’s website “…..Chile’s oldest grape varietal has been recovered from
the past…, a varietal that arrived in the 16th century …cultivated
by a large number of small growers".
The Big Bucks
Domaine St. Siffrein
Chateauneuf du Pape 2010- $41.95 – A nice example of the 2010 vintage.
Sweet, savoury, spicy, juicy. I could go
on. The finish of this wine surely does….But hey, it was 2 bucks cheaper last fall!
Vintage? Same. Producer? Same. Price? 5%
increase! WTF? The Vintages Panel should
have given this wine a 50 Shades of Grey review as foreplay to get Ontario
shoppers in the mood for the screwing they’re about to get. Something along the lines of “A turgid wine
with long, hard tannins that assault your forgiving tongue while the silky,
burgundy coloured elixir pleasures it with fruit and spice. Your tastebuds just
begin to acclimatize to the delightful assault flowing across your pink, vibrant,
fleshy, mouth-muscle when the scent of soft calfskin fills your nose. You realize
too late it’s the unstoppable fingers of the uncaring government bureaucrat
roughly peeling open the supple, soft leather of your wallet, plundering it of your hard earned wad of dough”. Now that’s an appropriate Vintages Panel
review for this wine. The same wine, the same vintage and a 2 buck increase in
a few months indeed.
Fontannafreda Barolo
Serralunga d’Alba 2007 –$37.95 I
really enjoyed the 500ml bottles of this wine in previous releases. Perfect for
when I’m bach-ing it! It’s a shame that they’ve reverted to the 750 ml size for
this release.
Il Marroneto Brunello
di Montalcino 2007 – Age worthy and well scored, if you’re looking for a splurge
wine this one gets a terrific review from Antonio Galloni.
Monte del Fra Lena di
Mezzo Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
–$48.95 - For me, the only choice from either
feature.
And a pair of ISDs
(In Store Discoveries) that are definitely worthwhile hunting down
Thorn-Clarke William
Randell Shiraz2010 – $45.00 – A big young brut with some subtleties. Think
of it as an all pro linebacker who can play concert piano.
Delas Domaine des
Grands Chemins Crozes Hermitage 2010 - $31.95. Almost 50 weeks to the day since
its last vintage was available, this wine has taken a 10% increase in price.
That’s the bad news. The good news is that it’s probably worth it if you can
find it! Want a review? Read the St. Siffrein above.
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