It’s time to strap on your big boy face if you’re going to
go near the Vintages section this week. With
the Oct.12th release, which
features a selection of Napa wines ably backed up by a second feature on Barolo/Burgundy,
Vintages unofficially begins its
autumnal upswing in pricing. This
culminates with the final three pre-Christmas releases.
Of all the countries represented in the current release, it
would appear that once again Spain will provide (alliteration alert!) the best
and biggest bang for your buying buck. The 7 Spanish options average 91-92
points according to the quoted reviews of professional tasters and magazines yet
cost on average about $26. Contrast that with the reds in the Napa release
which come in at an average price of well over $58 and it’s pretty easy to see
where you’ll get more value.
I just checked my cellar in preparation for this release. The fact that it resembles a Tokyo subway car
at rush hour combined with my enforced price ceiling has a direct impact on the
VRSS this week. The result is a paltry 58 points score. As a ‘must buy’ only
the under $20. Tres Picos makes the grade for me. Two others have me weakening. The Torres
Salmos is calling my name and should I win the lottery, I’d be all over the
Oreno. That said, here are the others
that do appeal to my palate.
The Picks
Borsao Tres Picos
Garnacha 2011-$19.95- Tremendous Grenache – raspberry/blackberry coulis
galore! Last release of this was an amazingly tasty wine. I scored some of the
Breca from a few releases ago. Maybe a blind tasting is in order.
If you’re a fan of garnacha or tempranillo, any of the
Spanish options should fill the bill for you!
Two from the Rhone - Domaine
St. Pierre Vacqueyras 2010 –$24.95- From the renowned 2010 Vintage, this
should be ready to drink now. A heady mix of Grenache and syrah, expect coulis,
garrigue (herby notes) and perhaps a hint of fennel or licorice.
Domaine la Fourmone
Tresor du Poete Vacqueyras 2010 – 22.95 – See above.
Two from Oz – $24.95
- Schild Estates 2010 Barossa Shiraz – made it back into the WSTop100 last
year after getting a good spanking and being sent to its room for some questionable
conduct. It’s a good wine. Big, ripe black fruit, olive tapenade or seaweed
maybe on the finish. Like many OZ
brands, I think Schild is moving upscale for future vintages so look for more
single vineyard and old vine reserve type options from them and grip your wallet accordingly.
Wynn’s Black Label
Cabernet 2010 $27.95 - On par with last release’s Pirramimma Cab but with a
bit more mint or menthol notes from the Coonawarra eucalyptus. Last release had
Wynn’s second label (similar to Katnook Founders Block, Elderton Friends) to
support the rising price of this wine. Annually I whine about buying it on
close out from the General List for $16.95 some years ago and how I have a hard
time to spend this much more for the same quality wine from a country with a
wine glut. This’ll be the last year for the whining, I promise. It is a very good
wine, just not for me at this price.
Two from Cali –
under $30 – the Loius Martini 2011 Cab is solid and the Stonehedge reserve might be OK but I am
not familiar with it. Any of the three recommended cabs from last release or
the Wynn’s from this one are better options than these two.
Luca Malbec 2011 –
$29.95 - From the Catena family, this is their mid-to upper level category of wines. The Luca Chardonnay is among my favourite global
Chardonnays. Like the chard, this malbec is well crafted from prime vineyard
locations but yes it is getting expensive.
For a match made in heaven, decant it, grill a T-bone steak and you’ll
quickly forget the expense!
The Big Bucks
Torres Salmos 2010 -
$36.95 – Think of it as a Spanish CdP. From the Priorat region of Spain and
like a very good CdP, it will benefit
from time. Buy one, leave it horizontal in a shadowy corner on the cold floor
of your basement and forget about it. In 3 or 4 years, when you rediscover it
and savour it, you’ll find yourself crawling around in the dark on said floor sadly
asking “Didn’t I buy more?” OK, perhaps that’s over the top, but this should
be a great wine.
Sette Ponti Oreno
2010 - $71.95 – A Tuscan take on a Bordeaux blend, to me, this wine is among
the best Tuscan offerings of the entire year. Duplicate the handling
instructions for the Torres Salmos above.
Luis Canas Seleccion
de la Familia Reserva 2005 - $34.95 –
Ageworthy tempranillo that can be enjoyed today.
San Lorenzo Bramante Brunello
2007 - $47.95 – Ready to drink but ageworthy as well.
Cavalli Tenuta Degli
Dei 2009 - $49.95 – Just squeaks in under the $50 ceiling and as a bonus is
you can tell your wife (or yourself!) that you bought her a designer original!
Napa – The
Freemark Abbey will be OK, but for that price, I think you can do better from
other regions. The balance of the Napa
options are just too much $$’s for me.
Giacosa Bussa Barolo
2008 – Sneaks in under $40, red fruits, smoke and will need some time.
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