Tuesday, November 23, 2010

The November 27 Vintages Release - Huuuuuge!

Nov.27 Vintages Release, Wallet killing Cali Cabs, Big buck Brunellos, Savings Shocking Shirazes, Overpriced Ontarians, but some terrific, if not quite bargain wines that are worth hunting down! But a word of warning, don’t stand in front of the doors at opening . The Crau will get you! OK so it’s the “Crow” not the Craw, but close enough ….

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftgAG3Vnif8

So what am I buying from this cornucopia of vinous delights?
Some Leasingham Bin 61, Clos de los Siete, the Vacqueyras, Marquis Phillips, Jalon Altos Las Pizarras, an Ebeneezer (What would Christmas be without one?), a Rieninger , and if I can find it, one bottle of the Vieux Telegraphe, aughhhh, somebody save me from myself!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

$15 - $25

2007 Domaine Galevan Paroles de Femme Cotes du Rhone - $15.00 – Lots of fruit, terrific vintage, well priced. Second or third pass for this wine in vintages in the last 18 months or so.
2008 Peter Lehman Layers $17.95 – If you like Lehmann’s ‘Clancy’s Barossa’ try this. It’ll be similar, with Tempranillo added as well. Lots of fruit here for sure.
2006 The Garden Path Shiraz / Cabernet Sauvignon - $17.95 – Langhorne Creek Aussie Blend. I expect a fruit bomb.
2007 Quinta do Coa Tinto - $19.95 – Should be a very good Portuguese red, not for all tastes but very nice.
2008 Marquis Philips McLaren Vale Shiraz - $19.95 - For those of you who like The Formula, try this. Same wine style, just from a different vintner.
2007 The Show Cabernet $19.95 – A burger wine from California
2007 Shottesbrooke McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon - $19.95
2005 Jalon Altos Las Pizarras – For Grenache fans, this one should be super and really well priced. $18.95
Bodega Y Vinedos Fernandez Rivera Dehasa de la Granja 2004 $21.95 – Tempranillo, great with food and also well priced.
2008 Clos de los Siete - $21.95 - Annually a favourite – An Argentinian Bordeaux blend that exhibits all the pluses of the terroir as defined by Michel Rolland but so far this has held its own pricewise.
2005 Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz - $24.95 - A Clare Valley Shiraz, so a slightly cooler climate Shiraz and annually very good. If you like the Lodge Hill, then I suggest you try this one. The 2005 already has a bit of age so is drinking really nicely right now. I had one on the weekend. My notes: Decant it, super wine, meat, bacon, red fruit, olive tapenade, black fruit, nori , espresso. Good to the last drop. Yes I will buy more.
2007 Domaine La Fourmonne Vacqueyras - $24.95 - A Southern Rhone Blend that is a step up from the Cotes Du Rhone Villages but not quite there with the Chateauneuf du Papes, if you read me often you know I have a soft spot for this little zone. The ’07 Vintage was wonderful and this one should be nicely in its drinking window now and for the next few years.

$25 - $40

2007 Elderton Cabernet Sauvignon $29.95 – Nobody buy this one. Doug wants it to sit untouched so he can pick it up on sale in 6 months or so.
2007 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo IGT Toscana - $31.95 – Great Producer, vintage and wine.
2001 Beronia Gran Reserva Rioja - $31.95 – Some age on your wine, sir? Try this! The Beronia Reservas are always so good – this one has more age and is their next level up – the Gran Reserva
2007 Kendall Jackson Reserve Cabernet - $35.95 – Had an ’06 Jack London on the weekend. I wasn’t knocked out by it. I expect similar flavours and profiles here.
2007 Burrowing Owl Merlot or Le Vieux Pin both from the Okanagan both around $39.95 – I like them but hard to justify the price when there is so much great wine around for less.
Stratus and Tawse – Expensive wines, if I must buy Canadian, I’d buy the 2006 Osoyoos Larose from a while back before either one but that said, a blind tasting head up could really be fun!
2004 Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Shiraz - $39.95 – Big! No, BIG !!!!

Over $40

2007 D’Arenberg The Dead Arm – Another big boy from OZ , annually a very good wine and I think it has actually come down in price, if only by a few bucks. This used to be a bit of a cult wine here due to rarity but not so much anymore - palate backlash and more availability have conspired against it.
2007 CABERNET SAUVIGNON CHARLES REININGER – look for it. And while you’re doing that, perhaps The Vintages proofreaders can look at a map, there is no such place as the Walla Walley Valley. Or maybe someone has a sense of humour over there? At any rate, if this bottle said Napa on the label instead of Walla Walla it would be at least twice the price. Compared to most of the Napa cabs in this release it seems a screaming buy at $42.95!

2004 Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino - $43.95
2005 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino - $49.95
2005 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino - $53.95

2007 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe La Crau Chateauneuf-du-Pape - $76.95 - #3 in the WS Top 100 last year. Strap on the brass knuckles and start calling in favours already! It’s amazing that 3 vintages ago (the ’04), our LCBO friends had to mark this down to clear it out! Damn those wine reviewers.

The nosebleed section

2005 Black Label Wolf Blass $99.95 – Why wasn’t I born wealthy instead of good looking? A heads up blind tasting among this one, an Elderton Command and an E and E Black Pepper Shiraz would be such fun.

2005 Silver Oak Napa Cabernet Sauvignon - $119.95
2006 Chateau Montelena Estate Napa Cabernet Sauvignon - $135.95
2007 Caymus Special Selection Napa Cabernet Sauvignon - $139.95
2006 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon - $114.95

Friday, November 12, 2010

November 13th Release - Blockbusters and wallet busters too!

A terrific holiday release but don't blow your wad this week, there are more to come in the next release too. That said, the pickings are slim under $15, pretty good between $15 AND $30 AND THERE ARE SOME SUPERB WINES OVER THE THIRTY DOLLAR MARK.

Under $15

These are all ok but with the exception of the TERRA D’ALIGI TATONE MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, you are better going up to the $19.95 price point.

MULDERBOSCH CHENIN BLANC 2009 - $14.95 – Terrific producer and this is , or was South Africa’s signature white

CAFÉ CULTURE PINOTAGE 2009 - $14.95 – Toasted barrels give this a real coffee nose and flavor.

LAS ROCAS GARNACHA 2008- $14.95 – A Bargain Spanish Grenache.

RAIMAT ABADIA CRIANZA 2007- $14.95 – Well priced, nice with food so a cheap alternative for Christmas wine and cheesing.

TERRA D’ALIGI TATONE MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 2006 - $15.95 – Probably the best buy under $15. – Case lots might be in order!

$15 TO $20

DOG POINT VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009 - $19.95 – One of My Top 3 Sauvingnon Blancs from NZ.

FIRST PRESS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 – A Napa cab under $20 might be worth a try but this is from Delicato and I am generally unimpressed with their wines - $19.95

PASCUAL TOSO RESERVE MALBEC 2008 $19.95 – Terrific Argentinian producer.

MONTES ALPHA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008 - $19.95 – Given the price point, I’d take this one over the Napa First Press in a heartbeat.

SANTA RITA MEDALLA REAL GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 -$19.95 – Same as above. This wine is traditionally a 90 pointer and the vintage was a pretty good one – perhaps more Old World than the Montes Alpha in style.

ROLF BINDER HALES SHIRAZ 2007 - $19.95 – Nice Big Barossa Shiraz.

ROBERT OATLEY VINEYARDS MUDGEE CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MERLOT 2007 - $19.95 – Fruit, you want fruit? I got your stinking fruit and I got it right here!

QUINTA DE VENTOZELO TOURIGA NACIONAL 2007 - $18.95 – A Portuguese star in the release will fly under most radars.

CHÂTEAU SIGNAC CUVÉE COMBE D’ENFER CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES CHUSCLAN 2007 $18.95 – This has to be among the final 2007 CdR-V’s but should still be a good one. Might be more tannic than earlier ’07 releases.

$20 to $30

JUAN GIL SILVER LABEL 2007 - $21.95 – Another Spaniard

HECHT & BANNIER SAINT-CHINIAN 2007 - $22.95 – Another David Schildnecht beauty of a review. He must be a riot at a party. This should be a terrific wine but I won’t even try to describe it the way he can.

BARONE RICASOLI ROCCA GUICCIARDA CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2006 - $24.95 – Last Vintage of this was superb. Market wise, this bad boy sits between the LCBO general list product and the Barone Ricasoli that scored Number 5 on the WS top 100 last year. It’s closer to the latter than the former so I’ll be buying some of these for sure.

THORN-CLARKE SHOTFIRE SHIRAZ 2008 - $23.95 – Great producer but too much for the product. And the review is inflated point wise.

WALLACE BY BEN GLAETZER SHIRAZ/GRENACHE 2008 - $25.95 – At 2 dollars more, I expect a better wine than the Thorn Clarke.

BODEGAS ALEJANDRO FERNANDEZ TINTO PESQUERA CRIANZA 2007 - $27.95 – There’s another Spaniard. I’m liking them more – my palate is changing

E. GUIGAL GIGONDAS 2006 - $27.95 – Love this little zone in the southern Rhone, generally more tannic than the Vacqueyras that I also really like – barnyard funk, black fruit, spice, on its own or with something roasted. Guigal is a very good producer.

RUFFINO MODUS 2006 - $28.95 – A super Tuscan at a great price from the brilliant 2006 vintage. WS gave it 91 points and it’ll probably be in their Top 100 (just a guess).

TRAVAGLINI GATTINARA 2004 - $29.95 – Cellar this one for a few years, always good, think Barolo for 15 bucks less.


Over $30


BODEGAS CALLIA WINEMAKER’S RESERVE GRAND CALLIA 2006 – 34.95 – 95 points…. And not Halliday points, these are real 95 pointers.
MONTES PURPLE ANGEL 2007 – rare $49.95 – Not commonly seen in these parts and a spectacular expression of carmenere. This'll go fast methinks!

THELEMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 - $38.95 – A big South African Cab

BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE EBENEZER CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2004 - $39.95 – The Cab is good but the Shiraz in the next release is better.

OLIVER’S TARANGA VINEYARDS SHIRAZ 2006 - $39.95 – Big wine, big price.

DOMAINE LA ROQUÈTE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2007 - $44.95 – The 2005 was amazing when younger – smokey, peppery black fruits on the nose and palate. As it ages, the smoke eases off, my first notes on it had mesquite all over, but it is a rich, deep, long wine. The’07 should be even better.

TORBRECK THE STEADING 2006 $49.95 – I really like Torbreck’s wines but I’ll recommend you take a pass on this, find some Holy Trilogy or Rosemount GSM instead and save 15 bucks or so. If you really want a treat, spring for the DOMAINE LA ROQUÈTE 2007.

Frescobaldi BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 - $49.95 – perennially a favourite Brunello – mavbe one for the vertical.
Over $50

POGGIO ANTICO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 - $64.95

CASTELLO DI NIPOZZANO MORMORETO 2007 - $59.95

LUCE DELLA VITE LUCE 2007 - $99.95
ANTINORI SOLAIA 2007 - $249.95
PRUNOTTO BAROLO 2006 - $51.95
CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2008 - $89.95

STOLPMAN VINEYARDS HILLTOPS SYRAH 2007 $64.95 – Hold off on this one and buy the $35 Stolpman already in stores – This might be a point or two better but with the thirty bucks you save you can get any number of terrific wines.

DUCKHORN MERLOT 2007 - $54.95

CHATEAU MONTELENA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006 - $51.95

CAKEBREAD CELLARS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006 - $99.95

DOMINUS 2005 - $121.95

ISDs
GEOFF MERRILL RESERVE SHIRAZ 2004 - $54.95 – A Jimmie Walker Trophy winner for Dy – No – Mite in a glass….no actually it’s the Jimmie Watson trophy winner - awarded annually to the best one year old red wine in the Royal Melbourne Wine show. Quite an honour in Oz but no guarantee the wine will age. The Geoff Merrill is an ISD so you probably won’t even see it. These products follow what I like to call the LCBO’s rule of 5’s. If you’re 5 minutes late arriving at one of 5 stores that get one of the 5 cases then there are 5 people ahead of you buying just this wine – and it is gone.

SHINGLEBACK D-BLOCK RESERVE SHIRAZ 2005 - $54.95 – The D Block Cabernet from the same vintage also won the Jimmie Watson Trophy. That bodes well for this wine but at the cost of big bucks.

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Oct 30 release and some random thoughts

I read another article on Robert Parker and the cocacola-ization of wines lately and that got me to thinking. Is it really Parker and the American predilection for the sweet juices and sodas that has changed wine’s flavour profile or can the changes be traced to some other cause? I’ll fly in the face of popular wisdom and throw out another thought. Wine has changed, not so much because of the enjoyment of sweet pops or Parker, but rather due to the marked decrease in the per capita number of smokers (of cigarettes, pipes, cigars) in the Western world. Not only are there fewer smokers per capita but those who are smoking, are smoking less and certainly smoking less in public places. As a result their (and our) olfactory senses and taste buds are more acutely aware of scents and flavours both pleasant and unpleasant.
Last week I watched a PBS documentary on the Kennedy assassination in the early Sixties which was recently made using old films from the day. I was shocked at the overwhelming number of smokers both on the street and in offices. Even the announcers on the TV news were seen smoking on screen! The fumes and smell of old tobacco must have been everywhere – clothes, skin, furniture. For those who dated a smoker, think back to kissing that girlfriend who smoked (or boyfriend – reader gets to choose – but we don’t want to hear about your Katy Perry action here!). Licking an ashtray or sticking your nose in a freshly emptied pack of ciggies comes to mind. Now consider the impact of those scents to the wines of the day. The tobacco scent and taste in the environment would have been cancelled out by (or cancelled out) the equally tobacco-y smelling and tasting wines of the day leaving a minor hit of fruit as the discernable flavour. The fruit component is all that people would have tasted simply because they were numb to the other flavours.
Now plot a chart with the beginning of the demise of smoking (OK not the demise but at least the reduction) with the beginning of Parker and the supposed cocacola-ization and the two curves probably cross nicely in the late 60’s early 70’s. That is when wine really began to change. Yes this has culminated with the high alcohol fruit bombs of the last decade or so but only because we had to get to the point of ‘too much’ to really know that it was too much.
That said, there is a balance to be found between the fruit and vegetal flavours, but I’ll lean to fruit everytime. They are grapes after all!! I still find Bordeaux wines to have very strong tobacco nuances and do not enjoy them as a generalization. No big surprise if you read me often! And those nuances may also account for some of the popularity of Bordeaux wines in the orient. In general, smoking continues to be less frowned upon there.
I’m not sure if my theory is an original thought, nor am I sure it is scientifically proven but I have not read it elsewhere.
That’s just my 2 cents and since it’s my blog, I get to spend it!

Now on to the release. It’s a pretty good one with some good choices in the 10 to 20, 20 to 30 and lots in the over thirty dollar price points. You can tell the holiday and gift giving season is almost upon us.

My choices, but remember the new returns policy and reduce the number of bottles purchased accordingly!!!!!!
BABICH BLACK LABEL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009
The following should all be decanted or at least opened well in advance of enjoying:
BURGE HOLY TRINITY 2005 - $29.95
RUFFINO SANTEDAME CHIANTI CLASSICO 2007 - $19.95
CONDADO DE HAZA CRIANZA 2007 - $24.95
DOMAINE ZUMBAUM TOMASI CLOS MAGINIAI PIC SAINT-LOUP 2007 - $18.95

Under $20

ILLUMINATI RIPAROSSO MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 2008 DOC The 2008 Montepulciano d’Abbruzzo Riparosso is a plump, juicy offering endowed with generous dark fruit and an inviting personality – last year’s was very similar and a good buy. Score: 89 (Antonio Galloni) $12.95

PUYDEVAL 2008 This tasting note defines why people hate wine snobs. It’s a cork dork’s delight! Lovers of Cabernet Franc – not to mention value – do not miss this 2008 Puydeval, blended with 28% Syrah and 10% Merlot grown near Carcasonne … Machine oil, mulberry, and incense form an intense and striking aromatic display that leads to a rich, almost fat, 14% alcohol, yet positively bright palate, where resin-, cinnamon-, walnut oil, and mint-tinged dark chocolate and mulberries hang on for a surprisingly stubborn finish marked by piquant nuttiness and well-integrated bitterness. This is archetypal Cabernet Franc in character, implausibly rich, and ludicrously under-priced. Plan to enjoy it for at least the next three years … Score: 90 (David Schildknecht, Aug. 2009) $14.95

TERRES D ’AVIGNON RÉSERVE DES ARMOIRIES ELEVÉ EN FÛT DE CHÊNE 2007 -$15 – a terrific vintage and a great price especially if you’re having a Christmas get together.


PILLAR BOX RED 2007 - think little brother to Lehmann’s Clancy’s blend for $15.00 Past vintages have been in the 85 to 88 range from BP.

BABICH BLACK LABEL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009 Grass and gooseberries - a normal NZ SB - the note says melons and capsicums, deliciously rich, vibrant and zingy. $17.95

ALAIN JAUME LES VALATS RASTEAU 2007 AC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Expect more up front tannins than the usual ’07 CdR-V fruit. A masculine and ageable Grenache-centric Rasteau. Showing aromas and flavours of chocolate, tobacco, black fruits, and earth. Parker, 91 points $18.95

DOMAINE ZUMBAUM TOMASI CLOS MAGINIAI PIC SAINT-LOUP 2007 AC Languedoc Pure aromas of raspberry and black cherry. On the palate it is finely honed with excellent aroma replays, plus whispers of peat and spice. Wine Spectator, 92 points $18.95

HEDGES CELLARS CMS 2008: 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot, 6% Syrah. Very fine, almost nonexistent tannins in past vintages – easier drinking than the Chilean cab below. I’d take either one of these before the Folie a Deux. $17.95

LUIS FELIPE EDWARDS GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 – Well priced and good quality. If you like mint with your lamb, try this wine. It may not have the eucalyptus hit of a Coonawara Cab but there’ll be a subtle undertone. $16.95

CAVE DE TAIN CROZES HERMITAGE 2007 AC Gold Medal winner at the 2009 Concours des Grands Vins de France. Shows a nice currant and fig fruit profile, with a smoky edge as well. Hints of tobacco and macerated black olive check in on the openknit finish. Drink now. $17.95
BODEGA NQN COLECCIÓN NQN MALBEC 2006 Patagonia and CICCHITTI EMKEM MALBEC 2006 Mendoza – Two good Malbecs should offer distinct samples of the differences of Argentinian terroir and climate. You can’t go wrong with either one with a slab of rare prime rib to complete the picture nicely – both 90 pointers at $19.95
TERRE DI PUGLIA PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA 2007 DOC This is a full-bodied red with a lush centre and good length. A robust companion to a seafood jambalaya, or fusilli with tomato-and-basil sauce (or anything grilled says me).14.95
CELLER DE CAPÇANES MAS DONIS BARRICA OLD VINES 2008 DO Montsant In previous vintages this wine has been very strongly recommended but not by me. A blend of Garnacha and Syrah, so I should like it but have never been a convert. $16.95
HERENCIA REMONDO LA MONTESA 2007 DOCa Rioja Made with a high proportion of Garnacha, this wine is filled with dark fruits, cloves, fresh herbs and smoky oak. It is well made and perfectly balanced. The snappy acids and ripe tannins support the fruit aromas and flavours with precision. $18.95

Between $20 and $30
MARCHESI DE’ FRESCOBALDI TENUTA DI CASTIGLIONI 2008
IGT Toscana A blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and sangiovese. Perennially a 89- 91 pointer, this year is close but won’t match last year’s 93 points. Always very good though! $21.95

QUINTA DE VENTOZELO RESERVA DOURO TINTO 2007 DOC Still young, this is a complex wine. It has layers of dusty tannins, spiced fruits, ripe blackberries and a dark structure. Black chocolate and licorice feed extra richness into the wine. Very smooth aftertaste. Score: 92 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, Aug. 1, 2010) $22.95

DUCKHORN DECOY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008 Napa - 92% Cab Sauv, 6% Merlot and 2% Cab Franc. The Connoiseurs Guide to California Wines gave this an 85 but one of my favourite Vintages consultants said of this wine: “This Decoy is the real McCoy!” Gee, it’s out there on the ‘net for $15.99 US. RETAIL. At $29.95 I’ll try one and you can bet I’ll bring it back if it’s not worth it – within 30 days – with 1 receipt, 2 pcs of ID, 3 character references and a partridge in a pear tree.

CONDADO DE HAZA CRIANZA 2007 DO Ribera del Duero 100% Tempranillo features aromas of blackberry, espresso, cedar and mineral. The wine is a fine combination of ample fruit, good depth and firm tannic structure. The 2005 was a WS top 100 wine. $24.95

FOLIE À DEUX CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 $24.95 – The Folie here is paying $24.95 for this wine. Should be no more than $17.95

RUFFINO SANTEDAME CHIANTI CLASSICO 2007 DOCG Great Vintage, Good complex earthy and black fruit driven nose. Very slick mouthful with a chunky blackcurrant finish. Modern and well executed chocolatey wine. Score: Silver Medal (Decanter World Wine Awards, 2009) $19.95

GLAYMOND ASIF CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 Barossa Valley, Expect typical Barossa colour -a teeth staining, almost black, wine – massive black fruit and licorice in both aroma and flavour. Decant this bad boy for at least an hour, perhaps more if you can wait. $29.95

GRANT BURGE ‘THE HOLY TRINITY’ GRENACHE/SHIRAZ/MOURVÈDRE 2005 Barossa, A touch more tannic than Rosemount’s GSM this blend of 40% grenache, 35% shiraz and 25% mourvedre is from 50 to 120 year old vines. Leans toward CNdP stylistically. Deep in colour and fruit with a smoky bouquet of dried red berries, herbs and sassafras ( root beer or cola?), good mid palate, finishes long, with lingering notes of smoke and sweet red fruit. This wine is ready to drink but I would decant it. Score: 90 – BP liked it a bit better than that. $29.95.

GEOGRAFICO PULLERAIA 2006 IGT Toscana: Herbs, berries and green olives on the nose. Full-bodied, with velvety and caressing tannins. Coffee, berry and light vanilla bean on the palate. Beautiful and enticing young wine. Merlot. Best after 2011. Score: 93 (James Suckling) $29.95

MARCHESE ANTINORI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2006 DOCG A quality producer, the price of this wine reflects the canuck buck vs the euro. This dry and fresh, youthful wine will still benefit from cellar time (3-5 years), but if you decant it (2 hours) you can enjoy it tonight with game meats, bison steaks or grilled lamb. $29.95

Christmas is coming – so is the preponderance of Big Buck selections – some even worth it!
NORMAN HARDIE UNFILTERED CHARDONNAY 2008 17.5 from Jancis Robinson – a great score from her. $35.00

OSOYOOS LAROSE LE GRAND VIN 2006 – Is this a $45 wine? Not in 2006 but weather permitting the vineyards will mature to allow it to become one. As it is now, it is a very good expression of Bordeaux meets the Okanagan. And it is nice to match against a Niagara equivalent from ’07.

Pecchenino San Giuseppe BAROLO 2005 DOCG Aromas of dried mushroom and berries follow through to a full body, with chewy tannins and lots of fruit underneath. Structured and very rich.. Score: 93 (James Suckling,)$44.95

PODERI COLLA BUSSIA DARDI LE ROSE BAROLO 2005 DOCG Dark, mentholated spices, plums, prunes and minerals are among some of the nuances that waft out of the glass as this sublime Barolo reveals the breadth of its pedigree. … the wine possesses gorgeous overall balance and wonderful harmony, ... Regardless, this is a great effort from Poderi Colla.. Score: 93 (Antonio Galloni,) $47.95

CASANOVA DI NERI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 DOCG Very good but big bucks, to be sure.
Score: 92 (Antonio Galloni,) $57.95

LA VITE LUCENTE 2008 IGT Toscana (Luce Della Vite) The second wine to Frescobaldi’s iconic
Luce, is a blend of Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, matured for 12 months in French barriques. This wine offers intense strawberry, blueberry, and currant fruit accented by mocha and spice. Built to last, it will show best after 2011; if you can’t wait, decant it for one hour or more and enjoy with rare red meat dishes . $39.95

MOCALI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2004 DOCG Offers currant, berries and flowers on the nose. Full-bodied, with lots of burnt fruit and raisin flavors. Rustic.Best after 2010. 91 (James Suckling, $46.95

ORNELLAIA LE SERRE NUOVE DELL’ORNELLAIA 2008 DOC Bolgheri Le Serre Nuove, a blend of Merlot, Cabs Sauv and Franc, and Petit Verdot, is a bright and fruity wine with red and black berries tinged by subtle oak nuances of chocolate and clove. Antonio Galloni gave the four previous vintages a score of 90 or above. Expect the yet-to-be-reviewed 2008 vintage to get similar hosannas. $59.95
RUFFINO DUCALE ORO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2005 DOCG TASTING NOTE: There’s a very plush and velvety quality to this wine that is enhanced by aromas of red berry, pipe tobacco, natural rubber and exotic spice. The wine has a ripe, fruitforward personality and a smooth, velvety finish that is broad, powerful and long lasting. Large percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon back the Sangiovese. Score: 91 (Monica Larner,) $43.95

BODEGAS ALEJANDRO FERNANDEZ TINTO PESQUERA RESERVA 2006 DO Ribera del Duero TASTING NOTE: The 2006 Pesquera Reserva is purple-colored with an expressive perfume of earth, leather, spice box, lavender, and blackberry. Layered on the palate, it has ample savory fruit, good richness, and 3-4 years of cellaring potential. From 2014 to 2026. Score: 92 (Jay Miller, June 2010) $41.95

THE THREE CALI CABS SHOULD ALL BE GOOD BUT THEY’RE OUT OF MY LEAGUE $$ wise:
Stags Leap Cabernet 2006 - $49.95,
Joseph Phelps Cabernet 2007 – $74.95
Ggrich Cabernet 2006 - $74.95


No ISD’s to recommend this time around.

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Oct.16th Release – Not a Bad One but Buyer Beware!!!!

Buyer Beware indeed! Don’t expect to be able to hold your wines and then try them when they reach their drinking window. Because if you do and you decide you don’t like them, you cannot return them. The LCBO has very quietly revised their returns policy in two ways. The first is to require the purchase receipt for any product returned and unless that product is defective, if you bought it more than 30 days previously it cannot be returned. If I understand the policy correctly, you still require the receipt to make that return even if it is defective. “What’s the big deal BP? This is retail. I can just take my business to the store next door. Oh I forgot, there is no store next door - this is the Liquor Monopoly of Ontario!”
Here’s the policy: http://www.lcbo.ca/products/returningproducts.shtml

And here’s some weak background on it – you can bet they’ve been working on this for some time:
http://www.ipc.on.ca/images/Findings/pc07-100-lcbo_374308213204.pdf

The head office bureaucrats spend hundreds of thousands of $$’s telling you that you are really missing out if you don’t buy your Bordeaux futures. For that privilege, they’ll take half your money and hold it for two years while at the same time they’re revising their policies so that once you have bought and taken possession of the damn things you can’t hold them for more than 30 days to return them. Tell that to any wine drinker with even the tiniest bit of wine knowledge and they will tell you that these wines will not be enjoyable for at least a few years. Read your Vintages Catalogues carefully my friends. When the LCBO tells you a wine can age for 15 years, they really mean it can age for 29 days. If a review says “best after 2011”, it really means “best for the LCBO after 2011” because if you buy more than one bottle and wait that long to find out that you don’t like it you can’t take the others back!

Why aren’t we seeing the standard style of LCBO glossy catalogues outlining this new policy? This should be good for 20 or 30 pages showing harried, front line store clerks getting beaten by Brunellos, bashed by Barolos, bonked by Bordeaux, reamed by Riojas and just generally cursed by customers. The store staff are the ones who’ll take the flack, not the overpaid and overblown ‘executives’ of the LCBO. Meanwhile, Ontario’s imported wine customers now have one more important right taken away by these small timers. The rationale for this change is so transparent. It comes back to bloated profit margins which are directly tied to executive bonuses. You see, the bloated prices we pay for most wines is supposed to offset the LMoO’s, ooops, the LCBO’s, formerly excellent returns policy. Now that we don’t have that, why are we still being expected to pay loan shark prices for wines? I didn’t notice any across the board - sorry about the pun - price chops.

I guess there is some good news. After last week’s announcement by the SAQ that the SAQ has plans to become a major wine distributor in North America, the Ontario taxpayer will no longer have to foot the bill for Bob Peters’ boys and girls to make their overseas buying trips to procure wines and spirits. They can just take the Greyhound down the 401, stay in the Motel Metropole, dine on steamies and poutine and save us all a fortune there! (Note to Bob - Imagine the reduced travel costs, reduced per diems and the increased profits!)

All kidding aside, no monopoly should be allowed to unilaterally put such limitations on its customers. And make no mistake, the LCBO is a monopoly. There is no other option available to the citizens of Ontario to legally purchase imported wine and spirits. We can vote with our wallets I suppose. How BP? Well, all those untried, new wines from obscure locations will have to remain just that – untried. Why take a chance knowing we can’t take it back if we don’t like it? Buy three for the cellar? Not a chance – BP’s new policy will be “Drink the cellar down to zero bottles and when I do buy, BUY ONE bottle!

Bi-Weekly rant done, this is not a bad Vintages release. There are plenty of international options in the release and my picks include at least one representative red from OZ, Chile, Spain, Italy, Portugal, and South Africa, all in the $15 - $27 range. By the way, if I have time, I’ll do a quick price comparison to other stores (little US stores without the buying grunt of the LCBO) for some of the wine picks.
The $15 to $27 Range – My Picks
Before we get into my picks, the best wine in the release is probably an ISD - the Alta Catena Cab way down at the end.

Australia
CAT AMONGST THE PIGEONS NINE LIVES SHIRAZ 2007 $17.95
– almost 2000 cases – there’ll be lots of it and it should be good. Think ‘the Formula’ with a niftier label. But see my note on the Jip Jip Rocks too!
South Africa
PORCUPINE RIDGE SYRAH/VIOGNIER 2007 $17.95
– This one might just out Aussie the Aussies! Blind against a Footbolt would be interesting but won’t happen now.
TOKARA DIRECTOR'S RESERVE RED 2006 $26.95 – OK so I changed the range just to fit this one! I’ll try one – I expect big things here. A more tannic Gamekeeper’s Reserve, perhaps like a Meerlust Rubicon and no S.A. burnt rubber. How’s that for an intriguing preview?
Portugal
PORCA DE MURÇA RESERVA TINTO 2006 $16.95
– should be good, and even better with food.
Chile
VENTISQUERO QUEULAT GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 $16.95
–the Maipo Valley Chilean flavor profile – cassis, chocolate, coffee.
Italy – Veneto
TEDESCHI CAPITEL DEI NICALÒ VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2008 $14.95
– this has come down in price to levels not seen in years.
Italy – Tuscany
DEL CERRO VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2006 $25.95-
Super vintage – big wine, full of rich fruit, hints of anise.
Spain
CUATRO PASOS MENCÍA 2008 $16.95
– This one may be as good as the Petalos of a few years back. Speaking of that, I had recommended it a few releases back and was disappointed in the bottle opened at Thanksgiving. Harsh, astringent and lacking the fruit came to mind. Perhaps a bit of time will help it – stay tuned and we’ll see.
R. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA CUBILLO CRIANZA 2004 $24.95 ISD – Will be an ‘old style’ crianza and I find my palate is moving in that direction sometimes. I expect a style and taste profile that is as opposite to the Nine Lives as it can possibly be. It’s great being a Gemini!

Best of the Rest
U.S.A. – California
RUTHERFORD RANCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 $19.95 – nothing special but a good solid performer that will not offend anyone.
Australia
JIP JIP ROCKS SHIRAZ 2008 $15.95 – Might be the best buy in the release and I’ll try one before I try the Cat Amongst the Pigeons. There is a lot of the latter, not as much of the Jip Jip and for two bucks less, I’ll try one of these first.
Argentina
ZOLO RESERVE MALBEC 2007 $16.95 – still have a few malbecs so no rush on this one.
Chile
SANTA CAROLINA RESERVA DE FAMILIA CARMENÈRE 2008 $17.95 – SC’s Reserva de Familia is always very well made wine – expect no less here. Don’t fear the Carmenere – to my palate it’s a merlot-y cab, or is that a cabby malbec?
France – Rhône
CAVE DE TAIN LES HAUTS DU FIEF CROZES-HERMITAGE 2007
$24.95 – super syrah.
RAVOIRE & FILS LE PRIEURE CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2007 $14.95- well priced but the ’07 CdRV’s are pretty much picked over by now.
Greece
KIR-YIANNI RAMNISTA XINOMAVRO 2007 $17.95 – want to try something a little different?
France – Southwest
CHÂTEAU LA CAMINADE CAHORS 2006 $15.95
– If you liked the La Coutale Cahors from a few releases ago, try this one. I expect earth, hints of tobacco, green pepper and tomato leaf, some dark fruit, tannins and will take a pass.

The Big $$ Items – Anything over $28 this week
The Two Bold Tuscans take the cake!!!

U.S.A. – Washington State
HELIX SYRAH 2006 (Reininger Winery) $29.95
Australia
CHARLES CIMICKY AUTOGRAPH SHIRAZ 2004 $39.95
Argentina
O. FOURNIER ALFA CRUX TEMP/MALBEC/MERLOT 2002 $39.95 - WS Top 100 a few years ago, this one should be ready to drink, especially with an Indian Summer BBQ’d steak
France – Bordeaux
CHÂTEAU PIPEAU 2005 $42.95 – Perennially a WS Top 100 wine but too expensive.
Italy – Tuscany
FATTORIA CARPINETA FONTALPINO DO UT DES 2007 $39.95 - 94 Points from James Suckling – some would scoff – but that is a great score for a very good vintage.
LA VELONA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2004 $43.95 – 92 Points from Galloni
TENUTA SAN GUIDO GUIDALBERTO 2008 $54.95 – Over priced for what you get.
Spain
TORRES SALMOS 2007 $33.95

The ISD’d – Rare, usually expensive
Australia
CLARENDON HILLS ONKAPARINGA GRENACHE 2006 $89.95 – Man o man, why wasn’t I born rich instead of good looking?
Argentina
CATENA ALTA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 $47.95 – This is my pick as the best wine in the release. Too bad it’s an ISD and there is so little of it!

Friday, October 1, 2010

The Monopoly fails in its quest for 3 in a row

The Monopoly fails in its quest for 3 in a row
Ah well, the Vintages streak of consecutive quality product releases has come to a crashing end at 2. Coincidentally it is also the appropriate time to reprise the Python boys ‘Fine Australian Table wines’ skit and provide the following recommendation for this release - it is a release for ’laying down and avoiding’.

On the OZ front the LCBO team has underbought and overpriced most of the products. Inside the release, the turkeys for Thanksgiving are a mostly bland rehash. With one exception the Icons from Italy are pretty much out of reach unless you have deeeeeeep pockets.

Let’s start with the Australia – if you are going to have a title of ‘Top Aussie Reds’ on your cover you had better have at least some of the TOP Aussie reds inside. Do Not Have one brilliant wine surrounded by a bunch of General List retreads, starter entries, and generally nondescript underachievers sporting overblown James Halliday scores! Where are the Two Hands, the Clarendon Hills, the Vasse Felix, the Leuwins? Hell even a Mollydooker would have been nice (they have more than one of ‘em in BC)!
On to the wines…
The Shiraz – Cimicky might be OK, the Blackwell from St. Hallet should be very good but is overpriced anymore, and the Grant Burge is an entry level wine from that producer. Ah well, if you have the bucks (I don’t), the Elderton Command is superb.
The Cabs – Really??? All of Coonawarra, and we have to have two Cabs from the same house? Katnook’s lowest price entry is good value for the $’s, Nick Faldo? Say no more. What’s the matter, didn’t they have a Wayne Gretzky bottling? The Wynn’s is a refugee from the general list where it languished at $5 LESS per bottle, and the Penley is a nice tannic brute but overpriced. It strikes me odd that here it is an Australian feature and there are a couple of Cali Cabs that are as good or better quality- wise and just as well priced.
The Western OZ offerings will provide a flavor profile more like Bordeaux. Think green peppers, tobacco maybe a bit of tomato leaf along with the fruit. The more full blown California style fruit will come from South Australia (Barossa, McLaren Vale, etc). Of the Cab Merlots – Stella Bella and Xanadu are my picks. The Stella Bella more because I can do a mini Marlon Brando impression with ‘Stella!’ than due to the overdone James Halliday review. I’ll leave someone else to do the Olivia Newton John bit with the Xanadu.
On to the Blends – don’t get me started again! Too late, I’m started again! How can you possibly have an Aussie blend page and not have a single GSM?
Pinots? – Not for me.

Rant done, lets get back to the release

The Italian Icons are at least somewhat iconic and high priced except perhaps the Chianti Classico Reserva 2006. That should be a nice find.

From Spain, what may be the three best buys of the release, the el Arte de Viver 2007 has a great review and is only $13.95; the Palacios Vendimia 2008 at $15.95 is also a good buy but I’m not as enthusiastic as Vic Harradine. The white of the release, especially with turkey day coming, might be the Burgans Albarino 2009. Again a great review and well priced at $16.95

2 from California that caught my eye – the Rodney Strong Cab is well priced and solid and last year’s Edge was a surprise. This year’s seems to be at least as good and is getting some good reviews. Under $28 for a 90 point Napa cab is pretty rare.
The Silver labeled Trapiche Cab from Argentina is always a bargain.
From Italy the Aglianico Del Vulture at $18.95 should sport big fruit and liquorice flavours I’m hoping.
As for the premium wines, look to the Italian Icons, Shafer’s Merlot and the Caymus cab along with the Philip Togni Tanbark Hill with the Caymus probably the best along with the aforementioned Elderton Command.

Those of you in the Big Smoke might head to Crossroads and pick up a real Australian bargain, the Peter Lehmann Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 is on clearout for $12.95. It’s from Barossa and on par with the Wynn’s in this release but at half the price. Or go back through some of the last two release notes and see what’s still in stock. I know I did!

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

The boys and girls of the monopoly are on a streak - 2 releases in a row!

Hmmm, another really good release. Nice to see the focus on Ontario wines but I’ll skip them to take a more worldly view of things.
This release has some terrific Portuguese wines (especially three from the Douro), a good group of Aussies, a pair of Spaniards, one or two from both Chile and Argentina, a bargain or two from the south of France, another spectacular Italian section (especially Tuscany) and even a few from California, although a couple of them are big dollars compared to the value of what is in the bottle. The Tuscans especially reflect the pull back in the American economy I think. Prior to the 2008 meltdown many of the big guns in this and the previous release would have been snapped up in huge numbers by our friends south of the border. As a result the reduced availabilities would have commanded a pretty penny. Instead there are now more widely available inventories of great quality and values from 2 excellent vintages. Could it be that the far east is focused on buying Bordeaux while ignoring other old world wine producing nations? Maybe, but if so it’s to our benefit.
Enough global financial discussions – we’re here for the vino!

Once again, it was very difficult to pick a Top 10 so flipped a coin to do a Top three by Country or a Top Three by Value. Value won!

$14 (roughly) - $20
Quinto Tedo Vinho Tinto 2007 – a Portuguese red blend that was awarded the Best Blend under £10 by Decanter. I expect a big mouthful that will accompany foods of all types very nicely. May not be to your tastes if you’re expecting a Cab or a Shiraz, but I think this’ll be terrific at $17.95.Hmmm, think Luis Figo meets Crocodile Dundee.
Paringa Shiraz 2008 – Should be a terrific mouthful of fruit.
Beronia Reserva 2006 – The ’05 recently scored a 91 in Wine Spectator and it blew out of the stores in a rush last year. More of the same here!
Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 – From Western OZ so less in your face fruit than South Australia, this just squeaks under the $20 mark and is a terrific wine for the $$’s.
Callabriga 2007 – If you’re a fan of the Sogrape wines, try this one. Their Callabriga from the Dao region was a WS Top 100 wine a couple of years back and this vintage rocks. Tempranillo with a Portuguese twist.
Ben Marco Malbec – One last malbec in case a grilling opportunity pops up!

$20 to $30

Petalos from J. Palacios – Along with one of the most stylish labels in winedom this is a tasty treat. From the Bierzo region of Spain and made from the mencia grape you should expect Syrot Nache or is it Pinacheyrah. Mencia doesn't match a single grape variety, well not to my palate anyway and I really do get tastes of Syrah, hints of Pinot Noir and a dollop of Grenache. Best of all, I think it’s less expensive than last year.

San Fabiano Calcinaia Cab Sauv 2007 – A 92 point Italian Super Tuscan at $22.95. Line forms behind me thank you very much!
Fattoria di Basciano Il Corto – a very nice super Tuscan at $27.95
Giacomo Mori Castelrotto Chianti Reserva 2006 – 90 points from the traditionally stingy Galloni and at $26.95

$30 to $40

It’s not often that my three top picks of the release are in this price bracket but I know 2 of the three are for sure this time around.

Quinta Do Crasto Old Vines Reserva 2007 – The 2005 was number 3 in the WS Top 100. This vintage may not finish as high but it may be a better wine. At least 5 bucks more than the ’05, reflecting the market I suppose, this is my overall pick of the release. $34.95

Viticcio Chianti Classico Reserva 2006 – Reflecting a brilliant vintage in Tuscany, this wine should be terrific as well. $34.95

Over $40

Montepeloso Eneo 2006 will be in rare supply – 149 cases of 6 only in the province – and a 95 from Galloni – best of luck finding it even at $44.95
Banfi Brunello – Always a great wine, needs some time in a cellar
Ferrari Cerano Tresor should be wonderful but way overpriced compared to many of the other options available this time around.

The ISDs?
Last release the In Store Discoveries merited their own little report. This time? Not so much. Maybe the Bishop at $34.95 but I'm taking a pass.

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

September 4th - The ISD's - call it the sequel if you like.

And now for the Big Ticket ISD's for the September 4th release - some smokin' wines in very small quantities! If you like those big Aussies or those Brunellos, get there early!

Here they are in all their glory! Oh and I left off a $90 Cali Cab - just too much!

BRANSON COACH HOUSE GREENOCK BLOCK SINGLE VINEYARD SHIRAZ 2004 $27.95
ST.HALLETT OLD BLOCK SHIRAZ 2006 $59.95
THORN-CLARKE WILLIAM RANDELL SHIRAZ 2005 $46.95
ALTESINO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2004 $51.95
ARGIANO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 $53.95
CIACCI PICCOLOMINI D'ARAGONA VIGNA DI PIANROSSO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2004
Score: 94+ (Antonio Galloni, www.erobertparker.com, April 2010) $63.95
IL MARRONETO MADONNA DELLE GRAZIE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 $78.95
LA LECCIAIA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2004 Score: 93 (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, April 30, 2009) $49.95
LA SERENA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2004 Score:94(James Suckling, www.winespectator.com) $68.95
SAN FILIPPO LE LUCÉRE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 $49.95
VERBENA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 $39.95